March 2019

Finally reached Fort Khejarla, another heritage hotel after 2pm / 14:00.

Khejarla seems to rise out of the Narwar plains like a sentinel. A sturdy fort, it is quite simple and uses very little ornamentation to break the almost forbidding exterior. The interiors too are simple and neat where the guests can look forward to genuine Rajput hospitality as most of the staff come from the local village.

https://jodhpurfortkhejarla.com/

Of the Fort’s 42 rooms, I wasn’t staying in one of the 16 rooms in the old fort itself but neither the less was more than happy with my huge room situated up high on the fort’s parapet. Glad that I didn’t have to take my bag up the many stairs to my room but I did take it back down the next morning using the Osprey back pack feature for the first time.

Rest of the afternoon was supposed to be at leisure but for me it was a walk around the village.

While they are used to tourists, I was still the focus of attention being the only tourist walking around. Again, the shop keepers were only too obliging for their photos to be taken.

I should have had a top on saying “New Zealand” as one of the first questions was “Where are you from?” Then of course cricket was mentioned with both current and former Black Caps names banded around.

I stood watching the old men playing a game on the veranda and one said to me “photo, photo” and gesturing me to take their photo which of course I gladly did.

Then there was the old man who couldn’t speak much English at all but insisted that I sit and have a chai with him, served by the young chai wallah.

I was surprised by the number of barber shops in this small village.

At the Computer Academy, Parash called me in and we talked about what he was doing training villagers to use computers. Met his father and nieces and nephew.

Then one of his best friend took me on the back of his motor cycle the short distance to the outskirt of the village where he worked at the local petrol station and yes, no helmet! Another chai was downed!

From there I slowly walked back.

During the 3.5 hours capturing what would definitely be one of the highlights of the trip having taken nearly 300 images plus the videos.

Did I take a photo or two of every shop keeper in town? Felt like it!

It was nearly 6pm / 18:00 and time for sunset when I got back.

There was this group of 3 gentlemen whom I asked permission to take their photo and it turned out that one seated was the owner of the Fort. Currently run under management, he will take it back in 6 years’ time. It has been in his family for 450 years.

The sunset was nothing to speak of but I had the views of the surrounding countryside from the Fort.

Dinner = Garlic Naan 50 rupees / NZ$1 / US$0.70.
Jeera Pulao 180 rupees / NZ$3.60 / US$2.50.
Basmati rice tampered with cumin seed and salt 260 rupees / NZ$5.30 / US$3.60.
Mangodi Hara Pyaaz dumplings made from a combination of different lentils simmered in rich thick gravy 225 rupees / NZ$4.60 / US$3.15.
Plus GST and a tip came to 900 rupees / NZ$18.20 / US$12.60.

After another wonderful Fort Rajwada filling breakfast, was ready early and left at 8.45am / 08:45 for the 5 hour drive through to Khejarla.

More of the same desert flat featureless scenery so I didn’t take many photos till we came to the area where marble was been quarried. Something quite different.

We had to pass right across Jodhpur as my overnight stay at Khejarla was some 85 km / 53 miles east or another 90 minutes on the other side of the city.

Back to Fort Rajwada, a walk around the lovely grounds and then soaked in the afternoon sun by sitting on the sun lounger by the pool. There was nothing to see outside the hotel itself and yes, I could have caught a tuk tuk back into Jaisalmer but decided not to.

The Royal Cenotaphs of the Rawals

Leaving at 4.30pm / 16:30 I did the optional extra visit to The Royal Cenotaphs of the Rawals in Bara Bagh (meaning big garden). The entry fee had just gone up to 500 rupees / NZ$10.40 / US$7 and 200 rupees / NZ$4.20 / US$2.80 for the camera which in some ways was far too much as over at Sunset Point are similar but certainly not so many cenotaphs and that entry fee was only 50 rupees / NZ$1 / US$0.70 and 50 rupees / NZ$1 / US$0.70 for the camera!

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

Jaisalmer has another group of similar looking cenotaphs, in a large unkempt garden around five kilometres further out, erected in honour of the city's royal rulers from the 16th to 20th centuries. The last cenotaph to be built is dedicated to Maharaja Jawahar Singh, who reigned after India’s Independence. However, it remains incomplete due to his death a year after Independence, which was viewed as a bad omen by the family. Most intriguing are the plaques on the cenotaphs. Plaques showing both maharaja and maharani together indicate that the queen committed sati (threw herself on her husband's funeral pyre). In contrast to the cenotaphs, modern wind turbines now populate the breezy hill as well, to generate electricity.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/places-to-visit-in-jaisalmer-1539657

Allowed just 30 minutes at the Royal Cenotaphs as with the sun about to set had to head over to the nearby Sunset Point which is supposed to be the best place from which to both watch the spectacular desert sunset and also photograph the fort.

Sunset Point

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

Vyas Chhatri, on the edge of Jaisalmer north of the Fort, is dedicated to the great sage Vyasa who authored the Hindu epic The Mahabharata. This haunting place is used as a cremation ground for Pushkarana Brahmins and contains a number of cenotaphs (empty tombs) erected in honour of notable ones. The cenotaphs are referred to as chhatris because of their domes, which look like umbrellas (chhatris). Go there for spectacular sunsets over the city.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/places-to-visit-in-jaisalmer-1539657

The sun was quickly dropping and colours changing.

Set up the Go Pro on time lapse to try and capture the changes.

In the distance were these 2 guys trying to do a selfie of the Fort and with the rising moon behind them I had to move very quickly to position myself and capture this shot.

Using last night sunset experience as a guideline, I was one of the last to leave before they closed and locked the gates. By now the sky was really red and soon it was black.

Dinner with Askok at Junction Palace – boneless chicken tikka, 400 rupees / NZ$8.30 / US$05.60.
Butter masala - marinated and grilled boneless chicken cooked in tomato butter based gravy 425 rupees / NZ$8.90 / US$6.
Askok had something for 450 rupees / NZ$9.40 / US$6.30.
Khadi vegetable paneer cheese 450 rupees / NZ$9.40 / US$6.30.
Garlic naan 250 rupees / NZ$5.20 / US$3.50.
Kingfisher lager 250 rupees / NZ$5.20 / US$3.50.
Water 50 rupees / NZ$1 / US$0.70.
Plus GST and a tip came to 2,000 rupees / NZ$40.40 / US$28.

Note: Videos are "foggy" at the bottom for some unknown reason

Patwa Haveli

Jaisalmer is also known for the fairy-tale architecture of its magnificent historic havelis (mansions), located both inside and out of the fort. Many can be found in the narrow lanes about 10 minutes walk north of the fort.

In this area, the 19th century Patwa Haveli / Patwon-ki-haveli is the city's biggest and most important one. It's actually a cluster of five mansions built by a wealthy Jain trader and his sons. Kothari’s Patwa Haveli is particularly impressive, with its breathtaking intricate stonework and artwork, and has been converted to a museum. The entry fee is 250 rupees for foreigners and 100 rupees for Indians.

http://patwahaveli.com/

The magnificent havelis or merchant’s houses, each richly decorated and carved from golden yellow sandstone – Patwon-ki-haveli (House of the Brocade Merchants) is the largest and most elaborate of the famous havelis of Jaisalmer.

Then the short walk to Nathmalji-Ki-Haveli.

Nathmalji-Ki-Haveli

The Nathmalji-ki-haveli (The Mansion of Nathmalji), the last of the great havelis was built in the late 19th century.

Diwan Mohata Nathmal, then Prime Minister of Jaisalmer built this Haveli in 1885. it was designed by two Muslim brothers Hathi and Lulu. An ethereal building, its construction has an unusual history associated with it; the two architect brothers constructed one half each of the building from the same plan. The two halves turned out to be absolutely dissimilar to each other and are joined together by a faÇade. There is no other building in Jaisalmer that surpasses Nathmal Ki Haveli in quality of workmanship even now. The entire building's faÇade has fine detailing and carvings. The main chamber of this mansion is carved out of rock and the entire frontage of the first floor is carved out of one solitary boulder. Its jharokas (balconies) and jaalis are carved exquisitely, like filigree. The Haveli's interiors are decorated with miniature paintings.

http://www.wondersofrajasthan.com/rajasthan-forts-palaces/havelis-of-jaisalmer.html

It was just after noon when the tour of the Fort and old town finished and no, I didn’t visit the Government authorised Bhang (cannabis) shop but instead had a chai next door.

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

You may be surprised to discover that bhang (marijuana) is sold openly in Jaisalmer. The renowned Lassi Shop (previously called the Government Authorized Bhang Shop), outside the first fort gate at Gopa Chowk, has been in business since 1977. It attracts a steady flow of curious customers who are served by the aptly named Doctor Bhang. There's a tempting array of bhang lassis (marijuana milkshakes) bhang cookies, cakes, chocolates and sweets, with potencies ranging from weak to strong. The safari packs, promising a smooth camel ride, are popular with travellers.

Do note: make sure you go to the original bhang shop, now called the Lassi Shop, next to Trotters Travel at the fort gate. The new "government authorized" bhang shop down the street is reportedly not as good. The owners apparently bribed the officials and took the government license.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/places-to-visit-in-jaisalmer-1539657

Chai making

Onto the Fort itself.

Standing 76m / 25 yards above the town, enclosed by a 9 km / 5.5 mile wall with 99 bastions, it certainly was an imposing sight.

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

There aren't too many places in the world where you can visit a "living" fort but Jaisalmer, in the Thar desert, is one of them. The city's mirage-like yellow sandstone fort is home to thousands of people who have been residing in it for generations. The fort also has a multitude of shops, hotels, restaurants, a palace complex, old haveli mansions, and temples inside it.

Bhati Rajput ruler Rawal Jaisal began building Jaisalmer fort in 1156, making it one of the oldest forts in Rajasthan. It eventually expanded to cover the whole hill and transformed itself into a city, which swelled in population during times of conflict. The fort survived many battles. However, its condition is now rapidly deteriorating due to illegal construction and poor drainage. Waste water has been seeping into the fort's foundations, making it unstable and causing parts to collapse.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/top-palaces-and-forts-in-india-1539345

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

Jaisalmer's ethereal sandstone fort, which resembles a massive sandcastle rising from the desert, is the city's focal point. The fort was built in 1156 by Rajput ruler Jaisal, who also founded the city at the same time. What really makes it unusual is that it's one of the few living forts in the world. Thousands of people reside inside its walls. It's also home to numerous hotels, guesthouses, temples, handicraft stores, restaurants, and the former maharaja's palatial palace. The palace is open to visitors for a fee, although it does get crowded and could be better maintained. Tickets cost 500 rupees for foreigners, including an audio guide. You'll need to pay 100 rupees extra to take your camera inside. It's pricey, so you may want to skip it!

Unfortunately, the condition of the fort is rapidly deteriorating, as drain water is seeping into its foundations. Hence, many people now choose to stay outside the fort in a hotel with evocative views of it.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/places-to-visit-in-jaisalmer-1539657

Poha, made up of flattened rice which is steamed and served with spices. Gently tempered with mustard seeds and fennel.

Entered via the east Gopa Chowk, through the First Fort Gate (Akhai Pol), then up the ramp: Suraj Pol, Ganesh Pol, Hawa Pol and finally Rang Pol.

Jain temples

One of the main attractions inside the fort is a stunning series of seven interconnected Jain temples that date back to the 15th and 16th centuries. Carved out of sandstone, the detail on them rivals that of the marble Jain temple complex at Ranakpur. You'll need to remove your shoes and all leather items before entering. The temples are open daily from 8 a.m. until 3 p.m., although foreigners may only enter all the sections after 11 a.m. Timings are prone to changing, so do check first. Tickets cost 300 rupees for foreigners. Indians don't have to pay but there is a camera charge.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/places-to-visit-in-jaisalmer-1539657

Then a climb to the roof top for a great view over Jaisalmer.

Instead of visiting the armory, Prem showed me where he lived and sipping chai from the roof top had a slightly different view of Jaisalmer below.

Prem is one of the 3,000 people who live within the fort. Looked like more than 3,000. Was told that they pay no tax, no rent. Now approximately 150 hotels and many restaurants are located within the fort dotted around the narrow winding alleyways.

Graffiti with a difference

In Jaisalmer, the unique practice of painting wedding invitations on house walls continues.

Caught between the expectations of the world to nurture the rich legacy and the growing aspirations of its youth to take a giant leap forward, Jaisalmer is holding on to many unique customs and traditions.

One of them is the practice of painting wedding invitations on the walls of the house. Tracing the remnants of the past, in the narrow winding streets of the Jaisalmer Fort – oldest living fort in India -- home to old havelis, exquisite stonework and a multitude of narratives, the painted wedding invitations make one of the most intriguing sights.

At the entrance of almost every house is painted Lord Ganesha - the deity invoked before embarking on anything auspicious – announcing the date of the wedding and inviting one and all. “In the case of bride's house, the girl's name is written first and then the groom's name while in the case of groom's house, its vice-versa,” says a middle-aged Anita, who is visiting her parental house, where a wedding has just taken place.

Standing against the backdrop of the colourful invitation her Vasu Family extends, Anita helpfully adds, “The trend of distributing cards began as late as some thirty years ago. Jaisalmer was a small city where everybody knows everybody and this was the perfect way of inviting people and spreading the word around. A family in one street would see it and then pass the message to the others living elsewhere.”

While some prefer to do simple crisp ones in Hindi, a few families pep it up with amusing one-liners. The residents claim it's a tradition that's specific to Jaisalmer in Rajasthan but something that cuts across different Hindu castes and sects living there. According to Tarachand Vyas, the practice runs common to Pushkarna Brahmins, Bhatias, Khatris, and many more. “I was born here in 1940 and have seen these invitations ever since. Marriages or saawas, as we call them, are an auspicious occasion and how do we forget Ganpati on such an important event. So, we call a local painter three to seven days before the wedding, to paint. And it's important to note that the invite stays on the wall till a new wedding is announced and replaces the old one.” Another local citizen chips in, “That's why our weddings used to be so huge, around 2000-3000 people and still are…”

Practiced for centuries, the tradition's popularity hasn't faded a bit. The younger generation considers it an integral part of their culture which is indispensable. “Wedding cards are there but nothing can replace the charm of these wall invitations. Our grandfathers did it, then our fathers did it and now we will do it,” says Prashant Acharya who works as a guide.

https://www.thehindu.com/features/metroplus/society/graffiti-with-a-difference/article2931600.ece

What a brochure said about Jaisalmer – “It is India’s most exotic and unusual town – a medieval looking place, straight out of the ‘Tales of the Arabian Nights’. This beautiful city is situated inside a huge mud fort and grew as a result of its strategic position on the trading route between India and Central Asia bringing great wealth to the city. It is a tiny jewel in the heart of the Thar Desert – once the capital of the Bhatti Rajputs. Jaisalmer started as an important caravan centre and remnants of caravan sarais still exist.

It was part of the Silk route renowned for the textile, scarfs, antiques and silver jewelry.

Visit this perfect Rajput walled desert city which is like a golden jewel shimmering above the hard sand.”

Another 9am / 09:00 departure and Prem my local Guide was waiting for us at Gadisar Lake – the large natural oasis that attracted Rawal Jaisal to this site.

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

Gadsisar Lake, also called Gadisar Lake, is a huge artificial reservoir that was built by Maharawal Gadsi Singh in the 14th century. It provided the only water supply to the city until 1965. The many small temples and shrines that surround the lake make it an inviting place to relax and spend some time. Migratory waterfowl are an added attraction in winter, along with numerous catfish in the water that love to be fed. Boats are available for hire too. The lake is situated on the southeast edge of the city.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/places-to-visit-in-jaisalmer-1539657

Buri nazar na lage. (Keep me protected from evil eye). This is very traditional. 7 chillis and a lemon.

Hindus believe that this device drives bad spirits out of the house. This special string of chilies and lemon is also hung in front of businesses for good luck.

Just hang a fresh string of chilies in the house, at the door or on the balcony, or perhaps carry a plastic ‘horn’, which looks like a chili, in your pocket as a lucky charm. Tradition dictates the chilies should be fresh, not dry, to ensure good fortune.

https://www.finedininglovers.com/blog/food-drinks/kitchen-superstition/

https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-significance-in-India-of-hanging-lemon-and-chili-tied-to-a-thread-outside-of-ones-house

Traditional Belief (what people think) or Scientific (ancient) belief? After knowing the reason, all logics seems so simple. Our Ancestor are more scientific than us, they just hide the pure logic and attach it to religion.

https://dharamvigyaan.blogspot.com/2015/12/why-do-we-hang-lemon-and-7-green.html

https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-history-or-significance-of-Nimbu-Mirchi

https://www.thebetterindia.com/51153/explanation-behind-superstitions-in-india/

Then on leaving walked up the bank and the view of Jaisalmer Fort, also locally known as Sonar Quila or more popularly nicknamed the Golden Fort due to the golden aura that seems to engulf the fort during each sunset.

While all Hindus are generally cremated and not buried, things change per state and belief depending on the village or town.
In the foreground was the cemetery where I was told the unmarried are buried as married Hindus are cremated.

Being close to the Pakistan border (100 kms / 60 miles), the Indian army had many, many bases here as we approached Jaisalmer. Soldiers stay for 2 years only before being moved to another base.

It took over an hour to get to the Sam sand dunes out in Rajasthan's Thar desert, about 42 km / 26 miles west out of Jaisalmer. I had the jeep to myself having booked a “shared” jeep. So that was bonus. 1,000 rupees / NZD$22 / US$14.80.

We had time to stop off at a small group of houses where the locals earnt a living quarrying the local rock.

Hundreds and hundreds of wind turbines dotted the countryside. Hate to see them all going when the wind really blows which it must do but certainly not today.

Pass many of the paragliding operators who use jeeps to get their fare paying people up into the skies above.

Soon it was off the main tar seal road, passing one of the many tourist luxury glamping tent village complexes, proceeded along the sandy track. I was asked by Kabir my jeep driver if I wanted to go to a tourist or non-tourist sand dune? Of course the non-tourist area please.

Decided before the trip not to do an overnight stay “glamping” it up in one of these luxury tent complex. Mainly because of how cold the overnight winter’s temperature could drop to. A wise decision as the buffet dinner food selection back at the Fort Rajwada was the best on tour!

Kabir of course had his friend Isak the camel man and while he stayed with him, pointed me in the direction of the sand dunes which was not far away and up I climbed. The dunes here are not high at all but the best that India can offer.

I had over an hour enjoying the peace of this area finding my own space away from the neighbouring dunes with many tourists dotted on them. Yes, tourists on camels plus the local gypsies wanting to perform a dance for me wandered by. You could hear the traffic in the far distance on the road and later the noisy powered paraglider but … it was worth it.

Slowly the sun dropped below the horizon a few minutes before 6.00pm / 18:00. (Yes, lots of sunset photos!)

I eventually wandered down the sand dune and Isak still had a hot chai waiting for me that he brewed up on an open fire much earlier and kept it hot by no doubt burying it next to the hot embers.

It was nearly dark 20 minutes after the sun had dropped when we left going back to Jaisalmer dropping Isak off at his village first. The jeep with no side window (roll down plastic if we had wanted to) so it was fresh air for the hour long trip back. Again was glad for the merino layers that I had taken. Yes, could have stopped and rolled the plastic windows into place.

Back to the hotel and their marvellous buffet dinner.

This hotel had by far the best buffet breakfast and dinner on tour!

Sonal Restaurant - A self-sustainable Rajashtani Fine Dining Restaurant which uses organic and local produce from nearby farms to offer the best of what rajasthani cusine has to offer. The decor and luxurious interiors add to the whole Imperial Experience offered by us at Fort Rajwada.

http://www.fortrajwada.com/

1,000 rupees / NZ$20.20 / US$14 all up.

Beautiful presented breakfast and I was asked if I wanted another omelet which of course I couldn’t refuse and said, “Yes please …”. The photo of the second omelet just doesn’t do justice.

Time to take the outdoor scenes that I took last night so that you can see the comparison in the previous entry.

After breakfast again, it was a 9am / 09:00 departure drive for a 5 hour drive through to Jaisalmer.

Kilometres after kilometres seeing the trees being protected by the small circle of bricks. With so many brick kilns around here with some billowing out smoke, no wonder ….

More overloaded trucks with hay.

Onwards we drove along the flat boring road with a ridiculous speed limit of just 80 km / 50 miles per hour. Yes, police with their speed radar was out and …. you can finish this sentence. Remember this is India ...

Jandals / footwear being left behind by pilgrims heading to Ramdevra Temple. Ramdevra is home to the temple of Baba Ramdevji. Devotees from all over visit the temple all-round the year.

Got to Fort Rajwada a 4 star hotel at 2pm / 14:00 and a representative of the local agency was waiting. Was informed that the jeep ride out to the sand dunes to see the sun set was later this afternoon leaving at 3.30pm / 15:30.

Time was marching on, so it was time to go as my overnight stay was Gajner Palace, another heritage hotel.

It was 30 minutes out of town, getting there just after 5pm / 17:00. There was no time to wander the village of Gajner by myself.

https://www.heritagehotelsofindia.com/rajasthan/gajner-palace.html

Not much time to explore the buildings and grounds before a non-existent sunset over the lake.

Told that dinner service started at 7.30pm / 19:30. On arrival it was effectively booked out with several large groups having reserved most of the inside tables. So I was asked if I would sit outside on the courtyard with the local group of dancers and musicians providing the entertainment for the dinner guests. Thankfully my dinner didn’t take that long to arrive as it quickly became colder but thankfully I was dressed for it.

Dinner = Laal Maans - Regional Rajasthan preparation of mutton in a spiced red curry 650 rupees / NZ$13.50 / US$9.10.
Steamed jeera rice - Tomato lemon peas or dried fresh fruit 350 rupees / NZ$24.30 / US$16.80.
Naan bread 110 rupees / NZ$2.30 / US$1.60.
Plus GST and a tip came to 1,200 rupees / NZ$25 / US$16.90.

The Gajner Palace certainly had the best room set up on the trip – felt like a mini apartment. Pity that it was for just one night.

A knock on the door and a real nice surprise - 2 hot water bottles.

Now 3.30pm / 15:30 and it was back across town by tuk tuk to see the World’s Smallest Miniature Painting.

I simply don’t have the steady hand to even try something like this. Shiv Swami demonstrated his craft. Yes, I was fascinated.

Shiv held in 2002 and 2003 the Guinness world record for the world's smallest painting.

http://bikanerminiaturearts.com/artist.asp

Can you see “Bruce in India”, 9 trees, 6 birds and the 3 temples on my nail and rather dried finger? I had to use a magnifying glass to see the fine detail in this magnificent art form.

Bhandasar Jain Temple is a three-storey temple, famous for its beautiful leaf paintings, frescoes and ornamented mirror work. This temple is constructed using red sand stone with beautiful paintings and yellow-stone carvings on walls, pillars of the sanctum and mandapa. On the walls there are illustrations depicting the lives of the 24 Jain tirthankaras. The temple consist of garbhagriha, antarala, mahamandapa and ardhamandapa. The sanctum is pancharatha (five rathas) is covered by shikhara having karna-amalakas and amalakas at top.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bhandasar_Jain_Temple

Jain temple is one of the oldest temples in Bikaner, and was built in the 15th century. It is decorated with mirror work, frescoes and leaf paintings. The temple is built of red sandstone and is divided into three floors. One can see the skyline of Bikaner by climbing to the topmost floor of this temple. It is believed that the temple was made with 40,000 kilograms of ghee instead of mortar, which locals insist seeps through the walls on hot days.

https://www.tourmyindia.com/states/rajasthan/jain-temple-bhandasar.html

Then a walk through the old town with more shop keepers being willing subjects.

Starting from top:
Bread Pakora - Bread sliced and filled with potato filling, dipped in chick pea flour mixture which is spiced and deep fried.
Mirchi Bhajia - Green Chillies (not spicy ones) are stuffed with besan (chick pea masala) and deep fried.
Kachori (at bottom).

Having Javed with me and a tip of 50 rupees / NZ$1 / US0.70, secured the photo op with this guy and his rather impressive mo (moustache). In Hindi known as a “MOOCH”.

And no, I wouldn’t even try and grow one like his.

It was 2.15pm / 14:15 when we set off into town by tuk tuk with the wait by the railway crossing waiting for an inter-city train to pass. A captive sea of faces for my lens with the beautiful afternoon light. Soon the barriers were up and off we went to see the outside of some of Bikaner’s havelis.

The Lallgarh Palace

It was only 45 mins in the Fort itself before off to The Lallgarh Palace.

This vivid palace was designed by Sir Swinton Jacob and built by Maharaja Ganga Singh. This grand architecture was built using red sandstones. The Lalgarh Palace is a classic example of Indian, European and Mughal architecture, and is famous all over for its lattice sandstones. The palace also houses a museum and the fourth largest private library in the world. The complex features magnificent pillars, elaborate fireplaces, Italian colonnades and intricate latticework and filigree work. The Karni Niwas wing houses the Darbar hall and an art Deco indoor swimming pool.

https://www.tourmyindia.com/states/rajasthan/lalgarh-palace-and-museum.html

https://www.lallgarhpalace.com/

Laxmi Niwas Palace

Next door was Laxmi Niwas Palace where that night in the grounds a rather lavish and expensive wedding was to be held and it was being set up.

http://www.laxminiwaspalace.com/

Got into Bikaner at 1pm / 13:00 and it was straight to Junagarh Fort.

Look at the sequence of photos of the sign being changed while we waited the 10 minutes for Javed my local guide for the afternoon to arrive. Told him about my photography interest and away we went. He listened and just gave me what I will call the “Reader’s Digest” version of the Fort’s history but more importantly took me to best places to shoot photos. This was because he was a photographer himself!

Junagarh Fort

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

Although Junagarh Fort is one of Rajasthan's lesser-known forts, it's no less impressive. What's particularly notable about it is that it's one of the few forts in India that isn't situated on a hilltop. The fort is right in the midst of Bikaner and the city grew around it.

Raja Rai Singh, the sixth ruler of Bikaner, built the fort during his reign from 1571 to 1612. He was a well-traveled expert in arts and architecture, and this knowledge is reflected in the fort's superb structures. Subsequent rulers added elaborate palaces, ladies quarters, audience halls, temples and pavilions.

The fort's original name was Chintamani. The renaming of it to Junagarh (Old Fort) took place in the early 20th century, when the royal family relocated to Lalgarh Palace outside the fort limits. However, they continue to maintain it and have opened part of it to the public. Guided tours are conducted, and there are also two museums with many compelling royal artifacts and memorabilia.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/top-palaces-and-forts-in-india-1539345

Junagarh Fort is located amidst the Thar Desert and was built by Raja Rai Singh in 1594. Located on a sprawling land of 5.28 hectare, this place is studded with temples, palaces and pavilions. Its 986m-long wall, with 37 bastions, is surrounded by a (now dry) moat. Within the vicinity of fort, there are 7 palaces, viz. Bikaneri Havelies, Phool Mahal ("Flower Palace"), Anup Mahal, Chandra Mahal, Ganga Mahal, Badal Mahal and Bikaneri Havelies.

https://www.tourmyindia.com/states/rajasthan/junagarh-fort.html

Javed took me to a “secret” passageway with the stain glass providing beautiful colours streaming in with the sun behind. This passageway was not accessible to the tourists, so we waited to they had passed before I could enter. All cloak and dagger stuff with his insider help!

Afterwards gave Javed a list of places from the various travel guides in Bikaner that I would like to see in the remaining time that we had.