March 2018

Day 12 Lucknow > Delhi

We had a 3.30pm / 15:30 train to catch so the day was free. Most of us took up JD offer of showing us a bit more of Lucknow.

Another foggy start to the day and at 9C it was chilly to begin with. Soon the fog burnt off and it turned into a lovely day.

Chhota Imambara

Leaving at 8.30am / 08:30 first up was Chhota Imambara where we had 30 minutes.

It is situated near the Bara Imambara and on the connecting road stands an imposing gateway known as Rumi Darwaza. The building is also known as the Palace of Lights because of its decorations and chandeliers during special festivals, like Muharram.

The chandeliers used to decorate the interior of this building were brought from Belgium. Also housed within the building, is the crown of Muhammad Ali Shah and ceremonial tazias. Thousands of labourers worked on the project to gain famine relief.

It has a gilded dome and several turrets and minarets. The tombs of Muhammad Ali Shah and other members of his family are inside the imambara. This includes two replicas of the Taj Mahal, built as the tombs of Muhammad Ali Shah's daughter and her husband. The walls are decorated with Arabic calligraphy. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chota_Imambara

http://lucknow.me/Chota-Imambara.html

https://www.holidify.com/places/lucknow/chota-imambara-sightseeing-2647.html

http://www.lucknowonline.in/city-guide/chhota-imambara-lucknow

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=Chhota+Imambara++lucknow&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjm8feDwo7aAhXDVrwKHU6sBsQQ_AUICigB&biw=1396&bih=668

Residency

Residency entrance was 200 rupee / NZ$4.20 / US$3.10. During our short 30 minute stop here it was the door frames and arches that caught my eye. That was long enough to walk through the whole complex. Hardly anyone here so it was a really peaceful relief from the hustle and bustle of the trip.

The Residency, also called as the British Residency and Residency Complex, is a group of several buildings in a common precinct in the city of Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, India. It served as the residence for the British Resident General who was a representative in the court of the Nawab.

It was constructed during the rule of Nawab Saadat Ali Khan II, who was the fifth Nawab of the province of Awadh (British spelling Oudh). Construction took place between 1780 and 1800 AD. Between 1 July 1857 and 17 November 1857 the Residency was subject to the Siege of Lucknow, part of the Indian Rebellion of 1857. The Residency now exists as ruins.

The Residency has been maintained as it was at the time of the final relief, and the shattered walls are still scarred by cannon shot. Even since Indian Independence, little has changed. The ruined building is surrounded by lawns and flowerbeds and is a tourist attraction nowadays. The cemetery at the nearby ruined church has the graves of 2000 men, women and children, including that of Sir Henry Montgomery Lawrence who died during the siege.

There is a weathered epitaph near the grave of Sir Henry that reads "Here lies the son of Empire who tried to do his duty" while another nearby grave reads "Do not weep my children, for I am not dead, but am sleeping here." A light and sound show to display the history of the Residency is also played each evening. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Residency,_Lucknow

http://www.lucknowonline.in/city-guide/lucknow-residency

http://asi.nic.in/asi_monu_tktd_up_residency.asp

https://www.roughguides.com/destinations/asia/india/uttar-pradesh/lucknow/lucknow-residency-siege/

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=Residency++lucknow&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi50sjMw47aAhUFH5QKHakwDtQQ_AUICigB&biw=1396&bih=668

A quick stop at Mr Brown Bakery for a stand up pastry breakfast 87 rupee / NZ$1.80 / US$1.30 which we ate outside the bakery. Then onto to our third stop.

Ambedkar Memorial

The short 15 minute stop overlooking Ambedkar Memorial Park wasn’t enough but it gave us a taste of what was down below and inside. It would have been good if we had time to see close up some of the 62 huge elephants on either side of the path leading up to the monument. Word of warning … if you touch the statues equals a fine of 500 rupees. After sunset the place gets lit up so that would be a really beautiful sight to see.

Ambedkar Memorial Park is a public park and memorial in Gomti Nagar, Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, India. It is more formally known as Dr. Bhimrao Ambedkar Samajik Parivartan Prateek Sthal (Hindi: डॉ. भीमराव अम्बेडकर सामाजिक परिवर्तन प्रतीक स्थल ) and is also referred to simply as "Ambedkar Park". The park honors the lives and memories of Jyotirao Phule, Narayana Guru, Birsa Munda, Shahuji Maharaj, Bhimrao Ambedkar, Kanshi Ram and all those who've devoted their life for humanity, equality and social justice. The memorial was constructed by Mayawati, the Chief Minister of Uttar Pradesh, during her administration when she led the Bahujan Samaj Party.

The foundation stone of the memorial was first laid in 1995. Earlier, the park was named Dr. Bhimrao Ambedkar Udyan. In 2012, it was renamed the Dr. Bhimrao Ambedkar Memorial and development work continued until 2002-03. In 2007, the park underwent further renovation and development. It was initially opened to the public on 14 April 2008 by Chief Minister Mayawati.

The entire memorial is built using red sandstone brought from Rajasthan. It is situated in the posh locality of Gomti Nagar, the largest planned residential colony in India. Cost of the memorial is estimated at 7 billion rupees. Its name was changed from Ambedkar Park to Bhimrao Ambedkar memorial in May 2012. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ambedkar_Memorial_Park

https://www.nativeplanet.com/travel-guide/visit-the-ambedkar-memorial-park-in-lucknow/articlecontent-pf18207-003696.html

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=Ambedkar+Memorial++lucknow&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiH0JKPxY7aAhUJoZQKHUdpBRQQ_AUICigB&biw=1396&bih=668

The 3 hours went by very quickly. Even our time at each stop was brief, it was most worthwhile seeing attractions of 3 quite different styles of architecture from the newly built to the ruins.

Lunch at Fork & Spoon – dal makhani 150 rupee / NZ$3.20 / US$2.30, steamed rice 100 rupee / NZ$2.10 / US$1.50, soft drink 40 rupee / NZ$.80 / US$.60. Total = 305 rupee / NZ$6.50 / US$4.70.

In the afternoon boarded the Swarna Shatabdi Express train through to Delhi.

Left at 3.30pm / 15:30 heading west.

Soon the sun was about to set just after 5pm / 17:00 as we crossed the Ganges River on the outskirts of Kanpur, a large industrial city with just some 3 million people.

Dinner was provided on board which took 4 hours to serve the various courses.

It was late 11.10pm / 21:10 when we finally arrived at Delhi and taken to Good Times Hotel for our last night’s stay.

Day 11 Varanasi > Lucknow

It was pitch black as we had to get up at some ungodly hour in readiness for the short transfer in pea soup fog to the nearby railway station to catch the morning 5am / 05:00 Varanasi - Lucknow Intercity train.

Got into Lucknow at 12.30pm / 12:30.

Lunch at The Mughal’s Dastarkhwan – House of Mughlai delicacies. Kebab Platter 475 rupee / NZ$10.00 / US$7.30, fresh lime soda 60 rupee / NZ$1.30 / US$.90, mughai paratha 24 rupee / NZ$.50 / US$.40, mineral water 20 rupee / NZ$.40 / US$.30 = Total 579 rupee / NZ$12.20 / US$8.90.

Rumi Darwaza / Roomi Gate

The Rumi Darwaza in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, India, is an imposing gateway which was built under the patronage of Nawab Asaf-Ud-daula in 1784. It is an example of Awadhi architecture. The Rumi Darwaza, which stands sixty feet tall, was modeled (1784) after the Sublime Porte (Bab-iHümayun) in Istanbul. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rumi_Darwaza

Bara Imambara

Visited the famous Shia Muslim shrine with its ornate Mughal architecture and number 1 attraction in Lucknow. Yes, this massive shrine is a striking sight to behold and deserves it’s number 1 status.

Bara Imambara is an imambara complex in Lucknow, India, built by Asaf-ud-Daula, Nawab of Awadh, in 1784. It is also called the Asafi Imambara. Bara means big, and an imambara is a shrine built by Shia Muslims for the purpose of Azadari. The Bara Imambara is among the grandest buildings of Lucknow.

The complex also includes the large Asfi mosque, the bhul-bhulaiya (the labyrinth), and bowli, a step well with running water. Two imposing gateways lead to the main hall. It is said that there are 1024 ways to reach the terrace but only one to come back. It is an accidental architecture.

The architecture of the complex reflects the maturation of ornamented Mughal design, namely the Badshahi Mosque - it is one of the last major projects not incorporating any European elements or the use of iron. The main imambara consists of a large vaulted central chamber containing the tomb of Asaf-ud-Daula. At 50 by 16 meters and over 15 meters tall, it has no beams supporting the ceiling and is one of the largest such arched constructions in the world. There are eight surrounding chambers built to different roof heights, permitting the space above these to be reconstructed as a three-dimensional labyrinth with passages interconnecting with each other through 489 identical doorways. This part of the building, and often the whole complex, may be referred to as the Bhulbhulaya. Known as a popular attraction, it is possibly the only existing maze in India and came about unintentionally to support the weight of the building which is constructed on marshy land. Asaf-ud-Daula also erected the 18 meter / 59 foot high Rumi Darwaza, just outside. This portal, embellished with lavish decorations, was the Imambara's west facing entrance.

The design of the Imambara was obtained through a competitive process. The winner was a Delhi architect Kifayatullah, who also lies buried in the main hall of the Imambara. It is another unique aspect of the building that the sponsor and the architect lie buried beside each other. The roof of Imambara is made up from the rice husk which make this Imambara a unique building.

There is also a blocked tunnel passageway which, according to legends, leads through a mile-long underground passage to a location near the Gomti river. Other passages are rumoured to lead to Faizabad (the former seat of power of the Nawabs), Allahabad, Agra and even to Delhi. They exist but have been sealed after a period of long disuse as well as fears over the disappearance of people who had reportedly gone missing, while exploring but still the reality has not been checked. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bara_Imambara

http://www.lucknow.org.uk/tourist-attractions/bara-imambara.html

https://www.tornosindia.com/asafi-imambara/

https://www.roughguides.com/destinations/asia/india/uttar-pradesh/lucknow/bara-imambara/

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=Bara+Imambara&tbm=isch

The highlight was wandering around the labyrinth with the 1024 ways to reach the roof terrace but only one to come back that if it wasn’t for the guide I would still be there trying to find my way out!

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&biw=1396&bih=668&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=lgm6WsOGK8GZ0gSV7peoAQ&q=labyrinth+lucknow&oq=lab+lucknow&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0i7i30k1l2.89771.90550.0.92747.3.3.0.0.0.0.197.393.0j2.2.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..1.2.393...0i8i7i30k1.0.u0H576DOIpM

Next door was the bouli / royal well.

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=bouli+lucknow&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiokNSck4zaAhVEn5QKHQj_CCIQ_AUICigB&biw=1396&bih=668

Dinner was supposed to be “street” food. To me it wasn’t but going to a fast food outlet – Royal Hut where I choose the pao bhaji for 110 rupee / NZ$2.30 / US$1.70.

The dish originated in the 1850s as a fast lunchtime dish for textile mill workers in Mumbai. Pav bhaji was later served at restaurants throughout the city. Pav bhaji is now offered at outlets from simple hand carts to formal restaurants in India and abroad.

Pav bhaji has many variations in ingredients and garnishes, but is essentially a spiced mixture of mashed vegetables in a thick gravy served hot with a soft white bread roll, usually cooked on a flat griddle (tava).

Variations on pav bhaji include:
• Cheese pav bhaji, with cheese on top of the bhaji
• Fried pav bhaji, with the pav tossed in the bhaji
• Paneer pav bhaji, with paneer cheese in the bhaji
• Mushroom pav bhaji, with mushrooms in the bhaji
• Khada pav bhaji, with vegetable chunks in the bhaji
• Jain pav bhaji, without onions and garlic and with plantains instead of potatoes
• Kolhapuri pav bhaji, using a spice mix common in Kolhapur
• White pav bhaji, with no garam masala or no chilli powder. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pav_bhaji

Then at Naturelo natural ice cream the desert of chikoo ice cream 140 rupee / NZ$2.90 / US$2.20 ended this day.

https://www.facebook.com/natureloicecreams/

I had in Mumbai at Taj Ice Cream their chikoo ice cream.

But what is Chikoo?

Chikoo, most commonly known as 'Sapota' in India, is a very familiar fruit. Chikoo is also called as Naseberry, Mud Apples, and Sapodilla Plum. Chikoo is a delicate brown fruit which tastes sweet and yummy. Chikoo is scientifically known as 'Sapodilla.' It comes from the Sapotaceae family in Central America.

https://mavcure.com/health-benefits-uses-chikoo-sapodilla-fruit-juice/

Last up for the day was getting on board the bicycle rickshaw 150 rupee / NZ$3.20 / US$2.30 to get us back to the river for our third river trip. Joe who was better joined us as last night he was poorly and stayed back.

Lassi

Varanassi is famous for its lassi. We got off Manikarnika Ghat for a 45 mins break. Passing the piles of timber ready for cremation, in single file because of the winding labyrinth of narrow alleys passing open shops, being passed by bodies as they were being carried down towards Manikarnika Ghat for cremation got to Blue Lassi.

Foreigners / tourists came and went as we were sitting on our tiny stools up inside a small room overlooking the alleyway surrounded by photos and messages left by travellers from throughout the world while we waited for our lassi to be made. Three generations of lassi wallah have sat on the same spot making I wonder how many million lassis have they made.

For me I enjoyed my banana lassi 160 rupee / NZ$3.35 / US$2.50 served in a traditional clay pot. Too much choice but that is not a criticism.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Blue-Lassi-Shop/116732481739729

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=blue+lassi+shop+varanasi&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwicmozJ2oTaAhUBVLwKHdYoAl8Q_AUICigB&biw=1398&bih=664

Was rowed back towards the Dasaswamedh Ghat where the evening Aarti had already started. Again we lit our individual candles and placed them in the Ganges each offering our own prayers as they drifted downstream.

Two and a half hours later at 7.30pm / 19:30 we finished this part of the trip back just below the Harishchandra Ghat.

Each of the 3 trips down the Ganges was different however I suppose that the first one was the most impressionable being the first time being confronted with everyday life and death besides each other very much out in the open compared to what I am used to. The next two trips after that merely added another layer to the experience of a very unique way of Indian life.

Dinner at El Parador and being a Nepali restaurant how could I not have their Traditional Nepali Meal: rice, dal, veg curry, sauted spinach, battered veg, cornmeal chapatti and yoghurt 400 quickly came to 550 rupee / NZ$11.60 / US$8.50.

The afternoon was a free afternoon but Joe, Ngaire, Robyn, Sally, Tova and I opted to go to see silk being weaved into cloth. So it was a quick turnaround after getting back to the hotel.

The tuk tuk who took us there also waited for us was 100 rupee / NZ$2.10 / US$1.60 each.

I quickly lost my orientation as we were led into an area of again narrow alleyways turning left and right and left ...

To me the way that the holes in the patterns are hand punch for the machines was very much labour intensive. Surely a machine would churn out them out in next to no time.

The noise of the machines clacking away would to me be deafening after a short while. Wonder what the workers’ hearing is like?

Then the shopping by the others. Somehow I enjoyed the 30 minutes as different quality of silk pieces covering the rainbow spectrum of colours was brought out and thrown in front of us. Eventually decisions were made and everyone left with their pieces to take home.

Got back to the hotel at 3pm / 15:00, 2 ½ hours after we left and while the others had an hour for a very late lunch at the hotel, JD took me to Varanasi Post Office, 100 rupee / NZ$2.10 / US$1.60 for the tuk tuk, so that I could buy a 20 rupee / NZ$0.40 / US$0.30 stamp to finally send Eve her post card that I got back in Mumbai. Time was running out to post it before I left India. This sending her a post card from every trip started back in when I was in Galapagos Islands 2011/ 2012 when I posted one from Post Office Bay, Floreana and it was hand delivered to her 2 months later by a traveller coming to New Zealand. http://v2.travelark.org/travel-blog/bruceontour/7

http://v2.travelark.org/travel-blog-entry/bruceontour/7/1325766339

(PS. The post card got to her several weeks later!)

Day 10 Varanasi

It was winter and fog is not uncommon so there was no point in leaving early for our sunrise morning boat ride down the Ganges. So we left the hotel just after 7 am / 07:00 in tuk tuks travelling through the near empty roads covered in thick fog for New Bread of Life which was our breakfast stop.

Skillet Breakfast = Fresh juice, toast, 2 eggs, hash brown, potatoes, tomato, mushroom and filter coffee 250 rupee / NZ$5.30 / US$3.80.

Arrived at Harishchandra Ghat at 9am / 09:00 to catch the boat for our second trip down the sacred Ganges River.

For 2 hours we were rowed while the locals were participating in their dawn ritual of washing both their bodies and clothes plus the burning of bodies down at the river’s edge.

Boat loads after boat loads of locals were being ferried upstream to the temple. Wonder if they each had a life jacket. Silly question!

I think that we were of just as much interest to them as we were to them as out came their phone cameras.

Soon the fog lifted and the sunshine gave both me a completely different light to use in these photos plus warmth to dry the washed clothes that were either hung or laid out to dry.

Day 9 Mughal Sarāi > Varanasi

It was 12.30 / 12:30 when we eventually arrived at Mughal Sarai. Yes, a rather long time from last night when we left at 7.40pm / 19:40 till now. The low lying fog caused many delays. Plus it was an enforced rest as being on the bottom bunk and with the 2 bunks above me still down meant that I had to also lie for most of the 17 hours. I was too tall to be sitting.

Continued by van the short distance to Varanasi and checked into the Hotel Vaibhav.

It was another late lunch of boiled rice 120 rupee / NZ$2.60 / US$1.80, dal makhani 200 rupee / NZ$4.30 / US$3.10, fresh lime soda 60 rupee / NZ$1.30 / US$0.90, stuffed paratha 70 rupee / NZ$1.50 / US$1.10 plus taxes = 473 rupee / NZ$10.00 / US$7.30 so that was lunch 500 rupee / NZ$10.50 / US$7.75.

Leaving at 3.45 pm / 15:45 aboard several tuk tuks for the trip to the Harishchandra Ghat.

Ghats

Ghats in Varanasi are riverfront steps leading to the banks of the River Ganges. The city has 88 ghats. Most of the ghats are bathing and puja ceremony ghats, while two ghats are used exclusively as cremation sites.

Most Varanasi ghats were rebuilt after 1700 AD, when the city was part of Maratha Empire. The patrons of current ghats are Marathas, Shindes (Scindias), Holkars, Bhonsles, and Peshwes (Peshwas). Many ghats are associated with legends or mythologies while many ghats are privately owned. Morning boat ride on the Ganges across the ghats is a popular visitors attraction. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghats_in_Varanasi

Harishchandra Ghat is one of the 2 cremation sites.

https://www.varanasicity.com/harishchandra-ghat.html

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=harishchandra+ghat+varanasi&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjDktn30YTaAhXLjLwKHd8MCIwQ_AUICigB&biw=1400&bih=665

We motored up stream and after turning the motor off drifted downstream with our 18 year boatman using the oars to keep us on course. It was certainly a relaxing way to take in the sights and activity on the shore as our boatman dipped his oars around us.

Drifted as far as Manikarnika Ghat which is known by some as the burning ghat and is one of the holiest sites. For some I’m aware that it could often be a confronting site.

Because this was the main cremation site, I could see from the distance the fires and then the smell of the smoke before arriving at the ghat. Sitting out on the water it was time to stop and reflect on the cycle of life and death.

As many Hindus believe the cycle of death and reincarnation will end by dying in Varanasi, this is their last stop.

One report has approximately 200 bodies are cremated throughout a day at the 2 sites. So all day long bodies are cremated on top of pyres on the riverfront steps at the 2 ghats. Finally their remains are sent into the river.

Manikarnika Ghat

Manikarnika Ghat (Hindi: मणिकर्णिका घाट) is one of the holiest among the sacred riverfronts (ghats), alongside the river Ganga. It is believed that a dead human's soul finds salvation (moksha), when cremated here. Thus, scores of the elderly across the whole country seek to walk up to its edges, and spend their last days absorbing the charisma of the ghat - which makes even death painless and insignificant to be pondered upon.

In India, death is considered as a gateway to another life received as a result of our past actions (karma). Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manikarnika_Ghat#cite_note-1

Manikarnika Ghat, the main burning ghat, is the most auspicious place for a Hindu to be cremated. Dead bodies are handled by outcasts known as doms, and are carried through the alleyways of the Old City to the holy Ganges on a bamboo stretcher, swathed in cloth. The corpse is doused in the Ganges prior to cremation.

Huge piles of firewood are stacked along the top of the ghat; every log is carefully weighed on giant scales so that the price of cremation can be calculated. Each type of wood has its own price, sandalwood being the most expensive. There is an art to using just enough wood to completely incinerate a corpse.

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/india/varanasi/attractions/manikarnika-ghat/a/poi-sig/1321849/356519

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=manikarnika+ghat+varanasi&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjzyffYzYTaAhULVrwKHWGVB6gQ_AUICigB&biw=1400&bih=665

Was rowed back and joining many other boats rafted up together to watch the nightly elaborate and colourful evening Aarti held on the steps of Dasaswamedh Ghat.

Varanasi Ganga Aarti

The Varanasi Ganga Aarti takes place every sunset at holy Dasaswamedh Ghat, near Kashi Vishwanath Temple. It differs from the aartis at Haridwar and Rishikesh in that it's a highly choreographed ceremony. Although a spectacular must-see, some people consider it to be too much of an artificial and showy extravaganza to have a lot of meaning in a spiritual context.

The aarti is performed on a stage by a group of young pandits, all draped in saffron colored robes with their puja plates spread out before them. It commences with the blowing of a conch shell, and continues with the waving of incense sticks in elaborate patterns and circling of large flaming lamps that create a bright hue against the darkened sky. The movement of the lamps, held in the pandits' hands, is tightly synchronizing to the rhythmic chants of hymns and clang of cymbals. The heady scent of sandalwood thickly permeates the air.

People start arriving very early (as early as 5 p.m.) in order to get a good position for viewing the aarti. A novel and effective way of seeing it is by boat from the river. Alternatively, many shops in the vicinity hire their balconies out to tourists. A maha aarti (great aarti) takes place on a particularly elaborate scale in Varanasi near the end of each year on Kartik Purnima.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/ganga-aarti-india-guide-1539713

Details about Ganges Aarti

A group of young saints dressed up with silky saffron and white robes conduct this ceremony. Each pandit or saint takes up a specific spot in the Ghat and start the ritual by offering flowers to the river. The ritual includes many oil lamps like snake hood lamp which are waved in a synced motion. Conch shells are blown during the ceremony too. Yak tail fans and peacock feather fans are also waved during the ceremony. The priests end the ceremony by pouring a bowl of water into the river. Upon which, the devotees let go of small oil lamps with flowers on a leaf to float on the river.

"Thousands of devotees gather to watch this Aarti and by the end of the Ganga aarti ceremony, you can find thousands of small oil lamps floating on the river that would look like numerous stars on the water".

http://www.visittnt.com/varanasi-tours/varanasi-arti.html

If I am fortunate to return to Varanasi in the future, it would be great to witness this ceremony from on the ghat itself.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dashashwamedh_Ghat

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=dashashwamedh+ghat+aarti+timings&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwibptjByYTaAhVHWLwKHYuiAWMQ_AUICygC&biw=1400&bih=665

After 3 hours on the water it was time to leave and take in and process what I had just witnessed. I think in two words it would be a “moving experience”.

Dinner at Annapurna with the Annapurna Special Thali 220 rupee / NZ$4.70 / US$3.40, tea 50 rupee / NZ$1.10 / US$0.80. Plus GST and a tip came to 300 rupee / NZ$6.40 / US$4.60.

Day 8 Darjeeling > Siliguri > Mughal Sarāi

Today all we had to do was to drive the 62 km down to Siliguri in order to catch an overnight air-conditioned sleeper train from New Jalpaiguri to Mughal Sarai just out of Varanasi.

Didn’t realise how bushed I was as I couldn’t focus and update my blog. Instead went to sleep at 5.30pm / 17:30 and didn’t get out of bed till 9am / 09:00 though I know that I was awake every 3 hours. So it was a late 10.30am / 10:30 departure from Darjeeling.

A very late just after noon breakfast come brunch stop at Kurseong Tourist Lodge.

A masala omelette 58 rupees / NZ$1.20 / US$0.90 plus a small pot of coffee for 100 rupees / NZ$2.10 / US$1.50. Add the various service charges and a tip I handed over 200 rupees / NZ$4.20 / US$3.10.

Then at Kurseong turned right and started the downwards drive along the Matigara – Kurseong Road / Subash Ghisingh Marg / Road. I lost count of the number of switchbacks that we had to take to drop the short 34 kms from Kurseong being at 1,500 metres / 4,783 feet above sea level to finally be at Siliguri just 123 metres / 404 feet above sea level.

What a change in temperature as well.

To kill time we stopped part way along the journey by a field of tea trees.

Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary

Then just 11 km out of Siliguri we stopped at the Sukna Forest Village.

https://indikosh.com/vill/322400/sukna-forest

Next door was the Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary.

So what can you see in Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary?

Actually lots of flora and animal life in wide variations.

There are 330 different types of plantations that have been recorded in the sanctuary. Amongst forest plantation you will see Khair, sisoo, simul and tropical sal forests. Other major plantations includes teak, udal, champ, lali, jarul, gamar, mandane, bamboos, ferns, orchids, sidha etc.

https://www.darjeeling-tourism.com/darj_000093.htm

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mahananda_Wildlife_Sanctuary

The whole place was a bit run down the put it mildly. We saw no animals.

http://simanachariya.weebly.com/travel-information-of-mahananda-wildlife-sukna-latpanchor-punding-gulma-toribari-seventh-mile-and-latlong-sector.html

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=sukna+to+sukna+forest+village&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjNoPWN_YHaAhUBTrwKHeVMAbUQsAQIVw&biw=1396&bih=662

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=mahananda+wildlife+sanctuary&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjIx_Kv_4HaAhWFgrwKHackC7sQ_AUICigB&biw=1396&bih=662

Finally at 4.45 pm / 16:45 got to the railway station at New Jalpaiguri where we said our farewells to Shekhar our driver.

When I went to another platform to find the toilet came across a place where they served either eat in or takeaway food. As I saw a tray of freshly cooked biriyani come out, so that was dinner for me 100 rupee / NZ$2.10 / US$1.60.

Back at the platform while waiting for the train got another bottle of cold Thums Up 30 rupee / NZ$0.60 / US$0.50.

Thums Up is a brand of cola in India. The logo is a red thumbs up. It was introduced in 1977 to offset the withdrawal of The Coca-Cola Company from India. The brand was later bought by Coca-Cola who re-launched it in order to compete against Pepsi.

As of February 2012, Thums Up is the leader in the cola segment in India, commanding approximately 42% market share and an overall 15% market share in the Indian aerated waters market. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thums_Up

Yes, it was a basic overnight train. Unlike the first overnight train that was a 4 berth with curtains, this was a 6 berth with no curtain. Short story I ended up again on the bottom bunk, though initially was allocated the middle bunk. I am just glad that I didn’t have the top bunk. You have to be a wee hobbit to get up into that small space.

Finally 2 hours after getting to the station we pulled out at 7.40pm / 19:40.

Peace Pagoda

As with other Peace Pagodas around the world, its aim is to unite peace seekers to create the calm they hope for.

Peace Pagoda, Darjeeling or Darjeeling Peace Pagoda is one of the Peace Pagodas designed to provide a focus for people of all races and creeds to help unite them in their search for world peace. It is located in the town of Darjeeling in the Indian state of West Bengal. Like most of the other Peace Pagodas, it was built under the guidance of Nichidatsu Fujii (1885–1985), a Buddhist monk from Japan and founder of the Nipponzan-Myōhōji Buddhist Order.

The foundation stone of the pagoda was laid on 3 November 1972 by Nichidatsu Fujii, and was inaugurated on 1 November 1992. The pagoda was designed by M. Ohka, and it took 36 months for constructing it. It houses the four avatars of Buddha including Maitreya Buddha. The height of the pagoda is 28.5 metres / 94ft and diameter is 23 metres / 75ft.The Pagoda is situated on the slopes of the Jalapahar hills of Darjeeling, a few kilometres from the town of Darjeeling. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peace_Pagoda,_Darjeeling

https://www.darjeeling-tourism.com/darj_00001e.htm

https://1001things.org/japanese-temple-and-peace-pagoda-darjeeling/

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=peace+pagoda+darjeeling&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjt39HN0__ZAhWFFHwKHdqdAKMQ_AUICigB&biw=1536&bih=734

Mahakal Temple

This charming temple is situated on top of a hill. Inside, a cave is designated as a holy site for worshippers of Shiva, the Hindu god of destruction. Previously the location of a Buddhist Monastery, it continues to be an important site for pilgrims.

Rising abruptly from Chowrasta is the hilltop. Situated atop is the ancient temple of Mahakal, a form of Lord Shiva. There is a cave sacred to worshippers in the temple. In Sanskrit, the word "Durjay Ling", means "Shiva of invincible prowess, who rules the Himalayas." There is a suggestion that the name Darjeeling could have emanated from this name. The place where the Mahakal Temple stands was once occupied by the Buddhist monastery. It is still a place of great sanctity for the Bhutias. Bells ring in the midst of fluttering flags, which are used to pray in the shrine. Monkeys are seen in plenty at the Observatory Hill. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Observatory_Hill,_Darjeeling

https://www.darjeeling-tourism.com/darj_000014.htm

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=mahakal+temple+darjeeling&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwivhoHVy__ZAhVpxlQKHb9UDGoQsAQIRA&biw=1536&bih=734

Glenary’s

Then a late lunch at Glenary’s. Chicken corn soup 100 Rupees / NZ$2.10 / US$1.50 and roast chicken 350 Rupees / NZ$7.40 / US$5.40 kind of fancied me … I suppose it was the grandeur of the old colonial British setting with its white table cloths and pictures around the wall which lead me to having the roast chicken. Plus it came on a sizzling plate.

This in its heyday would have been one of the places to dine at. It still is.

https://www.darjeeling-tourism.com/darj_000051.htm

https://www.facebook.com/glenarysdarjeeling/

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/india/darjeeling/restaurants/glenary-s/a/poi-eat/449583/356540

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=glenary%E2%80%99s+restaurant+darjeeling&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjsjdOg1f_ZAhUGAXwKHcD7AxEQ_AUICigB&biw=1536&bih=734

By now the air was cold so while less than 3kms walk back to the hotel JD, Tova & I got a taxi back.

Climbed aboard and grabbed a seat aboard this charming narrow-gauge vintage steam engine train. It's the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Darjeeling Himalayan Railway and was one of the highlights and attractions for me to do this trip. I wasn’t disappointed … not that I am a train spotter!

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, also known as the DHR or Toy Train, is a 2ft / 610 mm narrow-gauge railway based on zig zag and loop-line technology which runs between New Jalpaiguri and Darjeeling in the Indian state of West Bengal. Built between 1879 and 1881, with six zig-zags and five loops, the railway is about 88km / 55 mile long. Its elevation varies from about 100m / 328ft at New Jalpaiguri to about 2,200m / 7,218ft at Darjeeling. Although four diesel locomotives handle most scheduled service, the daily tourist trains (from Darjeeling to Ghum—India's highest railway station—and the Red Panda, from Darjeeling to Kurseong) and steam-enthusiast specials are hauled by vintage British-built B-Class steam locomotives. The railway's headquarters are in Kurseong.

On 2 December 1999, UNESCO declared the DHR a World Heritage Site. Two more railway lines were later added, and the site became known as the mountain railways of India. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darjeeling_Himalayan_Railway

https://www.darjeeling-tourism.com/darj_000089.htm

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&biw=1536&bih=734&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=0XqzWtPiNuqF0wLV-ZWoBw&q=toy+train+darjeeling&oq=toy+tr+darjeeling&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0i7i30k1l4j0i7i5i30k1j0i8i7i30k1l5.4928.6716.0.8921.6.6.0.0.0.0.263.1196.2-5.5.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..1.5.1195...0i8i30k1.0.d2S-ZcrKvWw

The interior of the train carriages:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&biw=1536&bih=734&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=5HqzWrDiFaaG0wKmg76QDw&q=toy+train+darjeeling+interior&oq=toy+train+interior+darjeeling&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0i8i30k1.3317.5195.0.6765.9.9.0.0.0.0.348.1282.2-4j1.5.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..4.5.1277...0i13k1j0i7i5i30k1j0i8i7i30k1j0i13i5i30k1.0.t3NToAh3GaY

Day 7 Darjeeling

Tiger Hill Sunrise

Drove up to the top of Tiger Hill, famous for its stunning panoramic and view of Mt Everest and Mt Kangchenjunga but will I be lucky? The sky was certainly black with the stars twinkling in the distance. Slowly it turned to a band of orange. Plus it was cold so several cups of hot chai was gratefully welcomed! Thanks JD.

No view of Mt Everest because of the cloud though Mt Kangchenjunga, India’s tallest mountain and the world’s third at 8,586 m / 28,169 ft was just visible in the distance.

The mountains was bathed in pink light.

I was surprised at seeing so many people. Mainly domestic tourists and few “foreigners” like us. A huge cheer and rush to see the sun as it broke through the cloud.

A new concrete grandstand is being built which will certainly help with the crowds especially in high season.

Tiger Hill (2,590 m) is located in Darjeeling, in the Indian State of West Bengal, and is the summit of Ghoom, the highest railway station in the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has a panoramic view of Mount Everest and Mt. Kangchenjunga together.

It is 11 km from the town of Darjeeling and can be reached either by jeep or by foot through Chowrasta, Alubari or Jorebangla and then climbing up the incline to the summit.

At sunrise, the peaks of Kangchenjunga are illuminated before the sun is seen at lower elevations.

From Tiger Hill, Mount Everest (8848m) is just visible. Makalu (8481m) looks higher than Mt. Everest, owing to the curvature of the Earth, as it is several miles closer than Everest. The distance in a straight line from Tiger Hill to Everest is 172 km / 107 miles.

On a clear day, Kurseong is visible to the south and in the distance, along with Teesta River, Mahanada River, Balason River and Mechi River meandering down to the south. Chumal Rhi mountain of Tibet, 135 km / 84 miles away, is visible over the Chola Range. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://www.darjeeling-tourism.com/darj_000016.htm

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/india/darjeeling/attractions/tiger-hill/a/poi-sig/449627/356540

Here are some more images from Dr “Google” if the clouds had behaved themselves:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=tiger+hill+darjeeling&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi5_cjzyP_ZAhUU8WMKHRQQCIEQ_AUICigB&biw=1536&bih=734

Back to the hotel for an 8 am breakfast of macaroni 65 rupees / NZ$1.40 / US$1.00 and a hot chocolate 50 rupees / NZ$1.00 / US$0.80.

Day 6 Gangtok > Darjeeling

Left Gangtok at 9am / 09:00 for the 98 km journey to Darjeeling by our private van.

Border crossing at Rangpo as we left Sikkim state with a short wait for JD to deal with the passports.

Then stopped at the breakfast spot by the Teesta River where we enjoyed the breakfast a couple of days earlier at Hotel Phalguney.

A vegetable wai wai which is veggie noodle or 2 minute noodle 50 rupees / NZ$1.00 / US$0.80 wasn’t enough so I asked for an egg bread omelette 60 rupee / NZ$1.25 / US$0.90 and a cup of warming milk tea 20 rupees / NZ$0.40 / US$0.30. Just 130 rupees / NZ$2.70 / US$2.00 for all.

The reflection by the 2 rocks wasn’t the same as the river must be flowing faster.

The guys were still building next to the restaurant. The method of a person pulling on a rope attached to a shovel with another person at the end of the shovel was common.

From here it was a 3 hour drive back towards Kalimpong through to Darjeeling with a photo stop at Lovers Meet overlooking the confluence of the Teesta River and Rangeet River.

Onwards to Darjeeling.

Checked in to Krishna Residency and a plate of Singapore Chow Mein 80 rupees / NZ$1.70 / US$1.25 washed down with a cup of milk tea 25 rupees / NZ$0.50 / US$0.40.

Happy Valley Tea Estate

Opposite the hotel was the 1,212 hectares Happy Valley Tea Estate.

Being winter nothing was happening, just maintenance. To me it was run down.

“A bud and 2 leaves” ... a phrase that I have heard many times in Sri Lanka when I saw their tea industry….

• Leaves mainly picked mainly in March and April.
• Spring is the first flush and strongest to the fourth flush or weakest.

• Withering to remove excess moisture – 60/70 %
• Rolling
• Blowing at 32C
• Oxidation drying 115C 98% DRY NOW

• White best
• Green and finally
• Black tea.

Happy Valley Tea Estate (Bengali: হ্যাপি ভ্যালি চা বাগান) is a tea garden in Darjeeling district in the Indian state of West Bengal. Established in 1854, it is Darjeeling's second oldest tea estate. Spread over 177 hectares (440 acres), it is situated at a height of 2,100 metres (6,900ft) above sea level, 3 kilometres / 1.9mile north of Darjeeling, and employs more than 1500 people.

The bushes in the garden are very old — the minimum age is 80 years, and some are 150 years old. Very little re-plantation has been done in the recent past. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Happy_Valley_Tea_Estate

https://www.happyvalleytea.com/

https://www.darjeeling-tourism.com/darj_000025.htm

From the top of the tea planation I waited for the group and took this sun set sequence.

A local had lit on the roadside this small fire.

Took an evening orientation tour of the town which was essentially a walk through the roadside market stalls and shops.

Dinner back at the hotel and for another 80 rupees / NZ$1.70 / US$1.25 Singapore Fried rice came out. Milk tea 25 rupees / NZ$.50 / US$0.40

In hindsight we should have had something to eat at the market! The food at Krishna Residency was not good at all throughout our whole stay!!! Without going back into town there was no nearby alternative.

Day 5 Gangtok > Rumtek Monastery

Along a narrow winding and very bumpy road it was a morning trip to Rumtek Monastery. Thank goodness it was only 24kms away. Trouble we had to take the same route back.

We had breakfast just opposite the Monastery first and more chicken fried rice 140 rupee / NZ$2.90 / US$2.20 and milk tea 20 rupees / NZ$0.40 / US$0.30 =160 rupee / NZ$3.35 / US$2.50 for me.

Currently Rumtek Monastery is the largest monastery in Sikkim. Checked out the golden stupa containing relics of the 16th Karmapa. No photos were allowed inside but check out these links.

http://www.rumtek.org/index.php?lang=en

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rumtek_Monastery

https://www.darjeeling-tourism.com/darj_000106.htm

Our local guide said that people from 5 countries are not permitted into Sikkim: Pakistan, Bangladesh, China, Maynmar and Nigeria, though on https://www.darjeeling-tourism.com/darj_00015b.htm Nigeria is not listed.

China is only 55 kms away, hence a strong military presence here in Sikkim as we drove around.

I wondered why there were soldiers in the monastery itself. Here is the reason.

Rumtek is at the centre of the Karmapa controversy, with a lengthy battle being played out in the Indian courts. Two rival organisations, each supporting a different candidate for the 17th Karmapa, claim stewardship of the monastery and its contents. The two organisations are the Tsurphu Labrang (supporting Ogyen Trinley Dorje) and the Karmapa Charitable Trust (supporting Trinley Thaye Dorje). Since 1992, the monastery has been the site of pitched battles between monks supporting one candidate or the other.

Neither candidate resides, nor has been enthroned, at Rumtek. Monks supporting Trinley Thaye Dorje (the minority) were thrown out of Rumtek by Indian security forces in order to quell violence between the two factions. Armed Indian soldiers still patrol the monastery to prevent further sectarian violence. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rumtek_Monastery

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=Rumtek+Monastery&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi5yLurnf3ZAhXMVbwKHdkhAlUQ_AUICigB&biw=1536&bih=734

Momo

Momo cooking demonstration back at the hotel and each of us had to make one. Let’s just say that our efforts never came out of the kitchen as I had expected. Anyway we each had a plate made by the chef to eat for our very late lunch. Cabbage, onion, carrot, 50:50 ginger and oil, wheat flour dough, baking powder and tasting powder.

Momo is a type of steamed dumpling with some form of filling. Momo has become a traditional delicacy in Nepal, Tibet and among Nepalese/Tibetan communities in Bhutan as well as people of Sikkim.

A simple white-flour-and-water dough is generally preferred to make the outer momo covering. Sometimes, a little yeast or baking soda is added to give a more doughy texture to the finished product.

Traditionally, momo is prepared with ground/minced meat filling, but over the past several years, this has changed and the fillings have become more elaborate. These days, momo is prepared with virtually any combination of ground meat, vegetables, tofu, paneer cheese, soft chhurpi (local hard cheese) and vegetable and meat combinations.
• Meat: Different types of meat fillings are popular in different regions. In Nepal, Tibet, Darjeeling district, Sikkim and Bhutan, pork, chicken, goat meat and buffalo meat are commonly used. In the Himalayan region of Nepal, lamb and yak meat are more common. Minced meat is combined with any or all of the following: onions/shallots, garlic, ginger and cilantro/coriander. Some people also add finely puréed tomatoes and soy sauce.
• Vegetables: Finely chopped cabbage, potato, flat bean (Lilva Kachori) or chayote (iskush) are used as fillings in Nepal.
• Cheese: Usually fresh cheese (Paneer) or the traditional soft chhurpi is used.
• Khoa: Momo filled with milk solids mixed with sugar are popular as dessert in the Kathmandu valley.

The dough is rolled into small circular flat pieces. The filling is then enclosed in the circular dough cover either in a round pocket or in a half-moon or crescent shape. People prefer meat that has a lot of fat because it produces intensively flavored juicy momos. A little oil is sometimes added to the lean ground/minced meat to keep the filling moist and juicy. The dumplings are then cooked by steaming over a soup (either a stock based on bones or vegetables) in a momo-making utensil called mucktoo. The dumplings may also be pan-fried or deep-fried after being steamed.

There are typically two types of momo, steamed and fried. Momo is usually served with a dipping sauce (locally called chutney/achhar), normally made with tomato as the base ingredient. Soup momo is a dish with steamed momo immersed in a meat broth. Pan-fried momo is also known as kothey momo. Steamed momo served in hot sauce is called C-momo. There are also a variety of dumplings of Nepal, including tingmo and thaipo. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Momo (food)

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=momos&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwii1JP2m_7ZAhUJErwKHQgrBCkQ_AUICigB&biw=1538&bih=719

Mahatma Gandhi Marg

A walk along an open air mall Mahatma Gandhi Marg surprised me as I wasn’t expecting anything like this. We could have been in any city. Not the India that I have experienced so far as main city shopping streets are concerned.

https://www.darjeeling-tourism.com/darj_000116.htm

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=Mahatma+Gandhi+Marg+gangtok&tbm=isch

By now I was getting worst and took up the offer of seeing a doctor. 300 rupees/ NZ$6.30 / US$4.65 for consultation plus some medicine (antibiotics, cough medicine) for another 310 rupee / NZ$6.50 / US$4.80 for my annoying cough.

Taste of Tibet saw us for dinner and I had their House Special Chop Suey 280 rupee / NZ$5.90 / US$4.30.

Day 4 Kalimpong > Gangtok

The long and winding road downwards from Kalimpong to the Teesta River for the 46 km journey north to Gangtok. Being on the left hand side of the bus, I had marvellous views of the river and hillside scenery with the 9am / 09:00 morning light streaming in from the right. Pity about all the trees and power poles.

Wonder how much protection from the cold water those doing the river rafting got besides their life jackets. Local Indians are venturing into the adventure activities having read about it recently.

Breakfast stop at Hotel Phalguney and the view of the slow moving glacial Teesta River which is the border between West Bengal and Sikkim with a couple of rocks and their reflections was great.

My breakfast was certainly cheap. Just 100 rupees / NZ$2.10 / US$1.60 for Aloo Parotha and the best thing was they came around and topped up my plate again for no extra charge. So that was breakfast and lunch washed down by a cup of milk tea for 20 rupees / NZ$0.40 / US$0.30.

After breakfast time to head off again.

Had a stop at Rangpo police check post so that JD can complete our entry formalities into Sikkim. Yes, got another stamp in my passport.

Arriving in Gangtok at 1pm / 13:00 meant we had to wait an hour before the ropeway / cable car ticket office opened after their lunch break. Just 110 rupees / NZ$2.30 / US$1.70 for the short 10 minute ride to the uphill station for the 6 who wanted to go on it. Robyn and Tova opted not to. Yes, we wanted to get off for a walk around. Look at the bottom right hand NOTICE = Didn’t read the last sentence that was even in UPPER CASE when it said you have to pay for another ticket if you got off. The first sentence did say it was a round trip ticket. Do you think we read ALL of the notices before buying our tickets?

While we waited went for a short walk around town

So after a brief walk about, we decided to walk back to town and at least it was all downhill! Somehow Hans got a lift by someone passing.

Maplewood Resort was one of many buildings seemingly perched on the side of the hill. As we drove in Gangtok the city certainly reminded me of my time in Quito, La Paz, Valparaiso, all in South America. Hate to be here if an earthquake struck.

Orientation Walk can wait till tomorrow as it was off at 5pm / 17:00 to see Tiger Zinda Hai a Bollywood Movie starting at 5.30pm / 17:30. 300 rupees / NZ$6.30 / US$4.65 for the ticket and of course you can not forget a tub of popcorn for 30 rupee / NZ$0.60 / US$0.50.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePO5M5DE01I

A woman on a mission. Watch Zoya unleash the tigress in her, in the song ‘Tera Noor’.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGNulc5qhDk

Tiger Zinda Hai (lit.: Tiger is alive), also known as TZH, is a 2017 Indian Hindi-language spy thriller film, directed and co-written by Ali Abbas Zafar. The film stars Salman Khan, Katrina Kaif and Sajjad Delfrooz in leading roles, with Angad Bedi, Kumud Mishra, Nawab Shah, Girish Karnad and Paresh Rawal in supporting roles. The film is the sequel to the 2012 film Ek Tha Tiger and the second installment of the Tiger film series, and is based on the 2014 abduction of Indian nurses by ISIL.

The first look of the poster was revealed by Salman Khan through his official Twitter account on 18 October 2017 on the occasion of Diwali. The official trailer was released on 7 November. The film was released on 22 December 2017. With a budget of ₹1.5 billion (US$23 million), it is the one of the most expensive Hindi films and one of the most expensive Indian films of all time. It has grossed more than ₹5.5 billion (US$84 million) at the box office, becoming a major commercial success and one of the highest-grossing Indian films of all time. At the 63rd Filmfare Awards, Tom Struthers won the Filmfare Award for Best Action. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiger_Zinda_Hai

Here are some images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=tiger+zinda+hai&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwje-IPFkv3ZAhWJu7wKHXohDsQQ_AUIDSgE&biw=1536&bih=734&dpr=1.25

Sitting upstairs in the comfort of our well-padded seats instead of being downstairs where the locals were yelling and clapping when their local hero came on screen. Perhaps it would have been better if we were sitting with them.

It was nearly 10pm / 22:00 when we had a late dinner. From the resort kitchen came an Egg Biryani 220 rupees / NZ$4.60 / US$3.40 with a cup of hot chocolate to warm one up 80 rupees / NZ$1.50 / US$1.10.

Another heater but this time it was 150 rupees / NZ$3.20 / US$2.30 per night and we are here for 2 nights. However while I had asked for one when we arrived, come bed time we didn’t get one – didn’t have enough. Naturally I was not impressed at all. (Next night they found one.)

Day 3 Jalpāiguri > Kalimpong

Was awake around 5.30am / 05:30 after a restless night’s sleep as several times during the night the fellow passengers in my compartment changed.

Apparently sometime during the night the train was stationery for an hour and that is why we got in to New Jalpaiguri at 7.35am / 07:35 instead of 6.20am / 06:20.

It was a grey foggy dawn that greeted us as we alighted on the platform. Porters took our bags.

We continued by van to Kalimpong.

A 9am / 09:00 breakfast stop at Highway Hotel, Loha Pul, Birik Forest for a plate of egg chow mein / noddle 160 rupees / NZ$3.40 / US$2.50.

How different was the scenery. Had time to stand in the sun and see the brightly painted vehicles go by.

With the steep hillside, single lane roadway twisting and winding its way alongside the flowing rivers and tributaries, it certainly reminded me of Bhutan which was literally only a valley away anyway.

Kalimpong is a hill station in the Indian state of West Bengal. It is located at an average elevation of 1,250 metres / 4,101ft. The town is the headquarters of the Kalimpong district. The Indian Army's 27 Mountain Division is located on the outskirts of the town.

Kalimpong is known for its educational institutions, many of which were established during the British colonial period. It used to be a gateway in the trade between Tibet and India before China's annexation of Tibet and the Sino-Indian War. Kalimpong and neighbouring Darjeeling were major centres calling for a separate Gorkhaland state in the 1980s, and more recently in 2010.

The municipality sits on a ridge overlooking the Teesta River and is a tourist destination owing to its temperate climate, magnificent Himalayan beauty and proximity to popular tourist locations in the region. Horticulture is important to Kalimpong: It has a flower market notable for its wide array of orchids; nurseries, which export Himalayan grown flower bulbs, tubers and rhizomes, contribute to the economy of Kalimpong. Home to Nepalis, non-indigenous Lepchas, other ethnic groups and non-native immigrants from other parts of India, the town is a religious centre of Buddhism. The Buddhist monastery Zang Dhok Palri Phodang holds a number of rare Tibetan Buddhist scriptures. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalimpong

Kalimpong is located at an altitude of 4,100ft. Because of its relatively lower altitude compared to Darjeeling or Gangtok, the weather is milder and pleasant for most part of the year.

https://www.darjeeling-tourism.com/darj_000127.htm

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/india/west-bengal/kalimpong

https://wikitravel.org/en/Kalimpong

https://www.tourmyindia.com/hill_stations/kalimpong.html

Normally on this tour the train will get in around lunch time. So we had plenty of time after check in for sightseeing firstly at the Pineview Nursery, a private commercial nursery established in 1971. I was surprised to see so many varieties of exotic and rare collections of north, south and central America's cactus plants growing up so high. A real surprise.

https://1001things.org/pine-view-nursery-kalimpong/

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Pineview-Nursery-Kalimpong/433968250003927

Here are some more images from their Facebook page.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=br.AbqToQPHC8xu2DXu7QzBZRHQ4HqDiPDcn-2ToStAiSzyFhkhMP-8YAqOg-a3CqzRs13zlVwocKRGNKk_l39wg8q50I9qy_VKNQ8xBkA0FQA3o5i10RxMqwxWoI8w5Okq6ShfF7PDafWsOrj-nTfeCv_SjKuVv4hmnqRZmFbkRZeMZfjRewM-WmFdnp4LBSSfN05qDnQbeF_8zgKfdOT4Dp6oYoX455k1Va_9vAI_divButLmfdYZPvNmWt28UxP3ado&type=1

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=pineview+nursery+kalimpong&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiS7oCHjfjZAhWMU7wKHZv2BykQ_AUICigB&biw=1536&bih=734&dpr=1.25

From here could see Mt Kangchenjunga the highest mountain in India covered in snow.

Then to Durpin Monastery also known as Zang Dog Palri Monastery / Zang Dhok Palri Phodang which is normally not included in this trip but remember because of the change in train timetable we were early arriving here in Kalimpong.

Zang Dhok Palri Phodang is a Buddhist monastery in Kalimpong in West Bengal, India. The monastery is located atop Durpin Hill, one of the two hills of the town. It was consecrated in 1976 by the visiting Dalai Lama.

The monastery houses many rare scriptures that were brought into India after the invasion of Tibet in 1959. It also houses the 108 volumes of the Kangyur. It is also popularly known as the Lava Monastery. The view from the hill-top is breathtaking. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zang_Dhok_Palri_Phodang

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/india/kalimpong/attractions/durpin-gompa/a/poi-sig/1284685/356542

A stairway from the side leads up to the top of the monastery and on top of the second floor from the open terrace had a really marvellous view of not only Kalimpong but Mt Kanchenjunga was in the background.

Mt Kangchenjunga is the highest mountain peak in India and ranked third highest summit in the world with an elevation of 8,586m / 28,169ft. See if you can pick out the 5 peaks of which 4 of them are above 8,000m and other is 7,900 m something. It is also called the 5 treasures of snow people of Sikkim and Darjeeling who used to worship this mountain. That is why nobody went on the top of the summit. They had to stop at a point which was marked by the king or you can say the royal family of Sikkim. Thanks JD.

My opinion is from here there is a much better view of Mt Kangchenjunga than from Pineview Nursery. Add the rolling tea gardens, Teesta and Reang rivers, it was certainly an awesome sight from this viewpoint.

Then lunch across the road from the hotel at Good’s Garden Retreat with for me the Chef’s Special Fried Rice 155 rupees/ NZ$3.25 / US$2.40 plus a BIG pot of tea to warm me up 120 rupees / NZ$2.50 / US$1.85 = 289 rupees / NZ$6.10 / US$4.50.

Off for some more sightseeing taking in views of the mountainous scenery with a stop at Deolo Hill, home to the highest point in Kalimpong. Pity we couldn’t enjoy the mountain scenery views because of the haze plus it was getting a bit nippy. With the haziness I’m not surprised that nobody was paragliding. Plus there are so few western tourists around ... perhaps the local domestic tourist paraglide?

Deolo Hill is one of the two hills that the town of Kalimpong stands between. Kalimpong is situated on a ridge connecting the two hills, Durpin and Deolo. The hill is 1,704 metres / 5,590 feet above msl and is the highest point of Kalimpong town.

On a clear day, the snow-clad mountains of West Sikkim are also visible from this hill. At the summit of this hill, there is a park built for recreation purposes which feature exotic flowers. The park is a popular picnic spot for tourists as well as locals. Near the park a Hindu temple is also a visited spot. Overall Deolo provides a panoramic 360 degree view of Kalimpong town and its neighbouring hills. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deolo_Hill

What does it looks like on a clear day? Here are some images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=Deolo+Hill&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiLz-HBiPjZAhUIwLwKHWH8BHoQ_AUICigB&biw=1534&bih=728

I am not feeling right 100% with similar symptoms to what I had in Madurai some 10 days ago …. sore throat, then an odd cough every so often and all my muscles and bones feeling weak, no energy and simply “yucky”.

King Thai Hotel back in town right by Kalimpong Market Square and as we walked in their blackboard menu had Chinese BBQ Chicken 150 rupees/ NZ$3.20 / US$2.30 so why not? I kind of expected rice to come with it but not so. It was just the chicken. Masala tea was 150 rupees / NZ$3.20 / US$2.30 equals 300 rupee / NZ$6.30 / US$4.65 all up.

Mountain View Hotel had no heating so it will be cold night? Hopefully not cold by paying 100 rupees / NZ$2.10 / US$1.50 for a heater.

Will probably be wearing all my 3 layers of merino and lightweight fleece jacket tomorrow.

New Market

Then after hearing about the history of this shopping mecca, officially built in the 1870s and once housed the most important retailers of the British era, it was free time for a short 2 hours so it was into the bowels of the extensive New Market.

New Market is a market in Kolkata situated on Lindsay Street at Free School Street (Mirza Ghalib Street). Although primarily "New Market" referred to the original enclosed market, today in local parlance, the entire shopping area is often known as "New Market".

Despite the appearance of new air-conditioned, American-style, shopping malls all over Kolkata, New Market, which has survived two devastating fires and regular flooding, remains at the core of the shopping experience in the city. Over 2,000 stalls under its roof sell everything from clothing to wheeled luggage to electronics to a special cheese found nowhere else. Under its apparent chaos lie extraordinary finds as well as remarkable bargains. Newmarket is a place to shop for garments & accessories, flowers, different food items including raw meat, fish, vegetables and fruits and even spices. There are crockeries and utensil stores. It also has a florist section dealing with exotic flowers. It is situated on Lindsay Street, Kolkata (Calcutta), just off Chowringhee Road, the market is open 10 a.m. until 8 p.m. Monday to Friday, until 7 p.m. on Saturdays, and closed on Sundays. Thanks Mr Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Market,_Kolkata

I don't think that this hand pulled rickshaw wallah or puller will be going anywhere fast. Just one of many that I saw around the market.

Kolkata is one of the last bastion of the hand pulled rickshaw. There are still about 18,000 rickshaw pullers and 6,000 rickshaws.

Most rickshaws serve people "just a notch above poor" who tend to travel short distances through the narrow & haphazard lanes that are sometimes inaccessible to even the most daring taxi driver.

Rickshaws transport middle-class residents who use their services out of convenience and for short distance trips to the local marketplace.

A woman with marketing to do can arrive in a rickshaw, have the rickshaw wallah wait until she comes back from various stalls to load her purchases, and then be taken home.

Proprietors of cafés or corner stores send rickshaws to collect their supplies.

They also provide an invaluable service for residents who could not be able to afford a taxi or auto rickshaw.

Some of the rickshaw pullers steadiest customers are middle-class families who will have a contract with a puller to take a child to and from school.

In the thick of monsoon rickshaws keep passengers above the water logged and swim through the flooded streets and lanes.

It is also used by the lane residents as a "24 hour" ambulance service.

Plus they are eco-friendly!

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/magazine/2008/04/kolkata-india-rickshaw-driver-culture/

https://www.indiatimes.com/news/india/kolkata-s-hand-pulled-rickshaws-are-the-last-sketches-of-a-colonial-hangover-in-india-266494.html

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&biw=1536&bih=734&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=VWqtWoeYDsuE8gXO4KzwDw&q=kolkata+rickshaw+wallah+&oq=kolkata+rickshaw+wallah+&gs_l=psy-ab.12...588088.588088.0.589409.1.1.0.0.0.0.374.374.3-1.1.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.0.0....0.QmV_EThsBkc

It was out the back going through the fish, meat and chicken sections that really interested me as oppose to the usual clothing, material and household ware, craft stalls in the main part of the New Market where the stall keepers kept asking “What do you want to buy?” Ken had mentioned about this part of the market and the locals living at the back as well.

By the time I got there, all but 2 operators had finished for the day. It was like a movie set with the birds all over the chopping blocks and in the rafters. Then the cats and dogs roaming around. Next door in amongst the meat section it was the large rats, more cats, dogs, birds and even live sheep.

Here are some more images from Dr “Google”:

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=kolkata+new+market&rlz=1C1GGRV_enNZ751NZ751&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiXjZaaifTZAhVDxbwKHZENDBQQ_AUICigB&biw=1536&bih=734

Back to the hotel to give JD my visa and passport as he needed a copy for entry into Sikkim later in the trip.

Because of the winter fog, the train departure time was brought forward to 5.30pm / 17:30 with the need to leave the hotel at 3.30pm / 15:30 to allow for traffic.

In the evening boarded the overnight New Jalpaiguri Kamrup Express train to New Jalpaiguri.

What did I expect? Probably a similar standard of 4 berth A/C cabins to that I had 12 months ago in Vietnam. Yes, it was 4 berths but a lower standard. Curtains replaced doors and there were 2 extra bunks out in the passageway that unfortunately Robyn and Toba got. We were given bunks randomly separated but allocated as males and females.

Yes, it was a basic overnight train with a pillow and blanket but I forgot to bring out of my backpack my sleeping sheet. By luck got what I had wanted … a bottom bunk.

Train slowly pulled out at 5.37pm / 17:37 before picking up speed and soon the rocking motion.

Experienced overnight travel like a local. One of my fellow passengers was a doctor with the Indian railway:

• 1.4 million - Work for the railways.
• 5.6 million - When extended to include the families.
• 3 million - Retired.
• 10 million = TOTAL.
• All receive free health care through hospitals and clinics.
• There are 2,500 doctors.
• Country divided into 16 zones broken into 54 divisions.
• Each division with its own hospital with a major zonal hospital with more specialised services.

Remember India has a population of 1.3+ billion.

With the gentle rocking motion sat back, got some well-earned and likely much-needed rest en route to our next stop.