Kiwi Bruce

Will I do a third trip to India?

Probably “Yes” as there is so much more of this incredible country to see.

At least on this trip no Delhi belly or unknown physical muscular issues like last time ...

Just didn't take my heel balm and was wearing most of the time my slip-on Birkenstock with no socks plus it was dry and at times dusty ... hence cracked heals.

Yes, should have worn my orthopaedics inserts for my shoes more than I did as that was also an issue towards the end of the trip ... walking towards the end of the day and the impact on the soles of both my heels.

Yes, there were lots of surprises and differences to my previous India trip a year ago.

What would I remember of this trip?

Travelling by car seeing:

• Yellow fields of mustard.
• Overloaded vehicles carrying hay.
• Dead animals mainly dogs on both the side of the road and road itself.
• The noise, particularly the horns in the towns and cities

When walking:

• The street photography and willingness by mainly the shop keepers for their photo to be taken. So it was a quick 2 shots - one setting the scene of what they were selling, then a heads and shoulder.
• The ladies and families who asked me to take their photos taken.
• The old men who have lived a lifetime seeing the India that they grew up with changed - no doubt full of wisdom.
• The ladies often dressed in a red sari with veils covering their faces.

Weather:

While it was winter, it was nice for me. Yes, the mornings were cold with the need to wear a long sleeve merino top but it quickly warmed up so soon I was down to just my yellow polo shirt.

“Your Vacations” the local provider:

The local guides and the wide range and standard of service offered.

From Push in Jaipur, Javed in Bikaner plus Prem in Jaisamler who all knew what I was after with my street photography and that I didn’t want to know too much of the history which I had read beforehand.

I didn’t come to India to relax in a hotel - came to see the locals at work and play.

Despite telling my local guide that I am not buying on this trip, being taken to the craft shops and at times pressured to buy! But that’s India so no surprises on this front.

Thanks for the upgraded vehicle with wifi.

Despite discussing the law of the land that talking on the phone when driving was illegal, too often Ashok had long conversation while driving so it was interesting when he changed gear on the manual car … he was not handsfree. Must have had a third hand to hold the steering wheel.

With one’s own vehicle, I able to stop at will like seeing the procession after leaving Luni on route to Ranakpur Temples and the mainly goat market seen enroute to Fatehpur Sikri.

Next time I will need to:
- be much clearer as to my needs and what I want to achieve with the local guides.

- try and ascertain the time that was allowed seeing the local sights.

Weather:

No rain despite reading back home the wet summer’s weather that they were experiencing.

Accommodation:

Had a diverse range of accommodation ... from the Heritage hotels to a resort with the odd 3 and 4 star hotel thrown in for good measure.

Great staying at the heritage hotels, all so different and each had its own unique character. Well worth it even though some of them were so far out of town.

• Hans Plaza - 4 Star hotel in central Delhi so it was good to be able to walk to Connaught Place only a couple of blocks away.

• Udai Vilas Palace - Out of Mandawa, it felt strange being one of the few guests in this complex.

• Gajner Palace - A Heritage Hotel in Gajner out of Bikaner. The best room as it felt like an apartment. Plus the 2 hot water bottles as a surprise treat.

• Fort Rajwada - Best 4 star hotel in in Jaisalmer with its setting. By far had the best buffet breakfast and dinner.

• Fort Khejerla - Another Heritage Hotel where the village walk around Khejerla was probably the highlight for me and the contact with the locals are concerned.

• Fort Chanwa - Another Heritage Hotel in Luni.

• The Lavitra - A 3 star hotel Udaipur. At least it was within easy walking distance back into the old city.

• Deogarh Mahal - The Heritage Hotel in Deogarh up on the hill with the labyrinth of passageways and roof terraces with its many different levels looking down at Deogarh itself.

• Ananta Spa Resort - No time for a spa or enjoy this modern complex just out of Pushkar.

• Fortune Metropolitan - 4 star hotel in Jaipur. The room with the view down into the neighbouring shopping centre from one’s bedroom window.

• Hotel Amar - 3-star hotel in Agra whose only thing in its favour was that it was just 15 minutes walking distance to the Taj or else why stay here? Wasn’t the food nor the rather dated room. Was only for a night so served its purpose fine.

Generally overnight accomodation was merely to sleep in a clean comfortable bed as oppose to spend time there enjoying the facilities.

Food:

While I am not a fan of Indian food, it was more than fine for me. I was going to go be vegetarian throughout this trip but that didn’t last long.

Jerra rice as well as garlic naan bread quickly become a favourite of mine on this trip.

Sights:

Where do I start?

Yes, as expected the Taj Mahal was no 1, especially seeing it in the morning with the fog coming and going.

Each of the forts had its own characteristics and none stood out as my favourite. Each had their own charm. Would I go back again to see them ... yes, but take it a bit slower and absorb their features and historical significance of its location.

Then there was the havelis and wondering what it would have been like in their hey day.

What about the sunsets and time out in the Sam sand dunes out of Jaisalmer?

Glad that I crammed in so much in the 16 days and managed to see besides the usual Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Udaipur and Jodhpur that most tours go to, got to Jaisalmer, Pushkar, Mandawa and Bikaner as well.

Hope that you have enjoyed this blog ... watch this space for my next adventure somewhere around our small world of ours.

While my bucket list is getting longer and longer, already planning my next trip to a country that I have not been to yet but don’t know when I will go or if in fact that it will be my next destination.

Breakfast decided on the Dim sum selection – shrimp fun gor, asparagus dumpling, spinach siu mai and glutinous rice dumpling.

Sun rises just north of New Zealand.

Not often when I come back to New Zealand fly down this side of the North Island so close to the coastline ...

Touchdown.

No issues with going through the "green" lane and getting my bag x rayed.

Home ... wash clothes ... lawns ... ah, back to reality.

Hong Kong – A short 9 hour layover and in my head I knew what I would love to achieve:

- If fine go up to the Peak and the new observation Sky Terrace 428 to see down over Hong Kong's Victoria Harbor again. I knew that it didn’t open till 10am / 10:00.

- Take the Star ferry across to Tsim Sha Tsui.

- Go to Wan Chai where Aunty Eileen and Uncle Kwong who was the minister at the Methodist Church and I had stayed all those decades ago plus see the development in that area.

With the skies still dark Hong Kong airport loomed and we arrived at 6.15am / 06:15.

Thanks to Chris’s Octopus card which still had some dollars on it so at the Express Train counter topped it up with another HK$100 NZ$18.90 / US$12.70 / for a return same day trip into town.

Slowly the sky brightened during the short 24 minutes that it took the train to get into Hong Kong station.

Hong Kong was still asleep and just awakening.

Then following my nose and signs to the wharf at Central to catch the Star ferry across Victoria Harbour to Tsim Sha Tsui.

Using the Octopus card HKD$3.70 HK$78 / NZ$0.70 / US$0.50, it was a short 10 minute ride on the upper deck. Yes, there are quicker ways to cross the harbour but it was the magic of the ocean water in amongst the tall skyscrapers and after spending 2 weeks inland in desert like conditions enjoyed the sea air …

Had the Tsim Sha Tsui side changed as I approached it? No, not really. Just many new buildings across on Hong Kong Island.

I allowed myself just 30 short minutes on this side walking along Kowloon Public Pier passing Hong Kong Cultural Centre and Hong Kong Museum of Art.

Going as far as Salisbury Garden as the Avenue of Stars was closed for renovations.

Then back along the street passing the famous The Peninsula (hotel) and finally the iconic former Kowloon – Canton Railway Clock Tower.

So, it was back on ferry at 8.30am / 08:30 and this time on the cheaper HKD$2.50 / NZ$0.50 / US$0.30 lower deck across to Central. Much better experience being closer to the water level. Plus it had the locals on their way to work.

I knew approximately where the Garden Road Peak Tram lower terminal was so again following my nose going through the elevated walkways between the various buildings got to St John’s Cathedral at 9am / 09:00. The Peak Tram terminal was around the corner.

A tram was about to leave, but the Sky Terrace 428 viewing terrace didn’t open till 10am / 10:00. I was glad that I brought my HK$99 / NZ$18.70 / US$12.60 ticket for the Peak Tram ride. It takes only 7- 8 minutes each way conquering about 370-meter / 1,300 feet height differences along the 1.35km / 0.8 mile route. It is so steep that the buildings you pass look like they are leaning a gradient of between 4 to 27 degrees!

Meanwhile buses need at least one hour along the winding hill roads. With the tram taking 120 pax = 95 seated and 25 standing, there were plenty of seats to choose from.

Knew to sit on the right-hand side going up for the views.

It was 9.30am / 09:30 when I got as far up as I could in the Sky Terrace 428 building, but it was still 30 minutes before the Sky Terrace 428 roof top opened. Spent time walking along to the Lion Pavilion and then further along Findlay Rd getting a slightly different perspective of the city scene below me.

Sky Terrace 428 is guess what, 428 metres above sea level and is the highest viewing platform in Hong Kong offering a stunning 360-degree panoramic view across the Hong Kong.

https://www.thepeak.com.hk/en/the-peak-experience/the-sky-terrace-428

https://www.thepeak.com.hk/en (tram)

Being one of the first to get up to the Sky Terrace 428 was good as there was hardly anyone on the viewing platform. With free wi-fi did a Facebook Live sending New Year’s greetings. Yes, Hong Kong has as expected changed and is still growing “upwards”.

Then down and it was only 10.45am / 10:45 but what a long queue was now waiting to get their tickets. So glad that I went up early!

Hennessy Rd with Methodist House and the Chinese Methodist Church was only a short 15-minute walk away along Queensway.

While the trams are still there, gone is the “ding, ding” that I vividly remember the sound trams made when staying with Aunty Eileen and Uncle Kwong above the church.

Henry showed me around the redeveloped site and chapel. Just the facade of the building was kept and a 28-story office block built 1997/98.

Time for some lunch but with my spoken Cantonese now virtually non-existent and I can’t read Chinese, it was interesting wandering around the back streets of Wan Chai trying to find a local place to eat at.

Found Wong Kei Chinese Barbecue Restaurant = Suckling Pig with Rice HK$72 plus the soup HK$6 = HK$78 / NZ$14.70 / US$9.90.

Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre down by the harbour. With MTR expansion construction passing the Central Government offices and Legislative Council Complex.

Down through Tamar Park with “both” flags flying.

Along the Central and Eastern District Promenade to the Central Harbourfront event space and neighbouring AIA Carnival with the Hong Kong Observation Wheel.

Now 12.45pm / 12:45 so time to think about heading back to the airport. I had allowed 2 hours to get back and that included getting through immigration / security etc.

In fact, I had plenty of time as the Express train left soon after I arrived at the platform. Getting through both immigration and security was so quick. So, had time to pass before my 3.20pm / 15:20 departure. By now I knew that Premium Economy passengers had their own queue at the boarding gate.

It was a night flight, dinner then managed to get some sleep.

I wanted to see the Taj Mahal (Taj) from the “rear” and the Mughal Riverfront Gardens was being the restored including the Mehtab Bagh.

Mehtab Bagh (Hindi मेहताब बाग़, Urdu:مہتاب باغ‬‎, translation: Moonlight Garden) is a charbagh complex. It lies north of the Taj Mahal complex and the Agra Fort on the opposite side of the Yamuna River, in the flood plains. The garden complex, square in shape, measures about 300 by 300 metres (980ft × 980ft) and is perfectly aligned with the Taj Mahal on the opposite bank.

Some 81 plants adopted in Mughal horticulture were planted, including guava, maulshri, Nerium, hibiscus, citrus fruit plants, neem, bauhinia, ashokaand jamun. The herbage was planted in such a way that tall trees follow the short ones, then shrubs, and lastly flowering plants. Some of these plants produce bright-coloured flowers that shine in the moonlight. Thanks Mr Wikipedia.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mehtab_Bagh

This is what Lonely Planet has to say …

This park, originally built by Emperor Babur as the last in a series of 11 parks on the Yamuna’s east bank (long before the Taj was conceived), fell into disrepair until it was little more than a huge mound of sand. To protect the Taj from the erosive effects of the sand blown across the river, the park was reconstructed and is now one the best places from which to view the great mausoleum.

The gardens in the Taj are perfectly aligned with the ones here, and the view of the Taj from the fountain directly in front of the entrance gate is a classic. It's a popular spot at sunset.

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/india/agra/attractions/mehtab-bagh/a/poi-sig/1151574/356509

It has great view of the rear of the Taj Mahal with all four towers or minars visible. Unfortunately, there was a lot of mist which had obscured most of the Taj but one could clearly only see the outline. However with the repair works going on, the gardens are not in their full glory. The money shot is no doubt from the fountain which was fenced off being renovated.

Mehtab Bagh is where Shah Jahan intended to build his own mausoleum, a black version, right opposite that of his beloved wife Mumtaz, the Taj Mahal. The jury's out if he ever began work because his son locked him up for the rest of his 44 years to stop him spending so much money. Also, he's said to have blinded and removed the hands of the Taj workmen, so they might never make anything so beautiful again.

Paid the extra 300 rupees / NZ$6.30 / US$4.20. Plus GST came to 505 rupees / NZ$10.50 / US$7.10 for the entrance fee.

Was it worth it? Not really but I have no regrets. I can see why this park is popular at nights with the locals and once further developed it would be an even better asset. Would be great to visit this garden in February through to April for the flowers.

If I had more time would have stopped near the field where the locals were playing cricket and used the Taj as a background image.

With a 1.30pm / 13:30 late check out, it was time to head back to the hotel and shower as I have 2 night flights ahead of me, then onto Delhi.

Seeing a while ago Frances my niece’s photos of her time at the Taj recognised that as we drove to Mehtab Bagh the saris drying laid out on the river bank having been washed. So, it was a very quick stop at the middle and end of the bridge while I dashed out to take a few quick images. Again wish that I had more time to go down to the river level itself. Perhaps next time if there is a next time. That plus see the “Baby” Taj which again is not far away.

Because of the possible traffic delays allowed plenty of time just in case. Hate to miss my flight connection to from Delhi Airport and a 10.30pm / 22:30 flight to Hong Kong.

Taking the Yamuna 6 lane 165 kms / 100 mile expressway from Agra to Greater Noida, it was a quick 3.5 hour journey to travel to the airport.

However, reaching the outskirt of Delhi, yes, the traffic did at times slow right down and the last hour was at times down to a crawl.

I should have remembered that the Lotus Temple in Delhi was close by the road to the airport so again can add that to my future list of places to see.

As Ashok’s daughter had her birthday that night and he lives an hour away from the airport, there was no point for him to take me somewhere for dinner so it was an airport dinner once check in was done.

The last 16 days travelled some approximately 2,870 kms / 1,780 miles, so thanks to Ashok for your driving skills and not to my knowledge hitting any vehicles or people. I won’t miss your phone ring tone though!

With check in opening at 7pm / 19:00, it was a bit of a wait but at least I had power to charge my camera batteries. With Premium Economy there was no queue at the check in counter. Got my boarding pass for both of the next 2 sectors but no upgrade.

Dinner up in the food court taking the non-veg combo 480 rupees / NZ$10 / US$6.80. Plus GST came to 505 rupees / NZ$10.50 / US$7.10.

Agra Fort was by car only a few minutes away. Lies on the bend of the river Yamuna, almost in the heart of the town. Akbar built it as his citadel over the years 1563-73 in the finest architectural style. It has imposing gates and walls of red sandstone and a moat.

This is what Lonely Planet has to say …

With the Taj Mahal overshadowing it, one can easily forget that Agra has one of the finest Mughal forts in India. Walking through courtyard after courtyard of this palatial red-sandstone and marble fortress, your amazement grows as the scale of what was built here begins to sink in.

Construction along the bank of the Yamuna River was begun by Emperor Akbar in 1565 on the site of an earlier fort. Further additions were made, particularly by his grandson Shah Jahan, using his favourite building material – white marble. The fort was built primarily as a military structure, but Shah Jahan transformed it into a palace, and later it became his gilded prison for eight years after his son Aurangzeb seized power in 1658.

The ear-shaped fort’s colossal double walls rise more than 20m and measure 2.5km in circumference. The Yamuna River originally flowed along the straight eastern edge of the fort, and the emperors had their own bathing ghats here. It contains a maze of buildings, forming a city within a city, including vast underground sections, though many of the structures were destroyed over the years by Nadir Shah, the Marathas, the Jats and finally the British, who used the fort as a garrison. Even today, much of the fort is used by the military and is off-limits to the general public.

The Amar Singh Gate to the south is the sole entry point to the fort these days and where you buy your entrance ticket. Its dogleg design was meant to confuse attackers who made it past the first line of defence – the crocodile-infested moat.

Following the plain processional way you reach a gateway and the huge red-sandstone Jehangir’s Palace on the right. In front of the palace is Hauz-i-Jehangir, a huge bowl carved out of a single block of stone, which was used for bathing. The palace was probably built by Akbar for his son Jehangir. With tall stone pillars and corner brackets, it blends Indian and Central Asian architectural styles, a reminder of the Mughals’ Turkestani cultural roots.

Further along the eastern edge of the fort you’ll find the Khas Mahal, a beautiful marble pavilion and pool that formed the living quarters of Shah Jahan. Taj views are framed in the ornate marble grills.

The large courtyard here is Anguri Bagh, a garden that has been brought back to life in recent years. In the courtyard is an innocuous-looking entrance – now locked – that leads down a flight of stairs into a two-storey labyrinth of underground rooms and passageways where Akbar used to keep his 500-strong harem. On the northeast corner of the courtyard you can get a glimpse of the Shish Mahal (Mirror Palace), with walls inlaid with tiny mirrors.

Just to the north of the Khas Mahal s the Mathamman (Shah) Burj, the wonderful white-marble octagonal tower and palace where Shah Jahan was imprisoned for eight years until his death in 1666, and from where he could gaze out at the Taj Mahal, the tomb of his wife. When he died, Shah Jahan’s body was taken from here by boat to the Taj. From here ascend to the upper level via the now closed Mina Masjid, which served as Shah Jahan's private mosque.

As you enter the large courtyard, along the eastern wall of the fort, is Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audiences), which was reserved for important dignitaries or foreign representatives. The hall once housed Shah Jahan’s legendary Peacock Throne, which was inset with precious stones – including the famous Koh-i-noor diamond. The throne was taken to Delhi by Aurangzeb, then to Iran in 1739 by Nadir Shah and dismantled after his assassination in 1747. Overlooking the river and the distant Taj Mahal is Takhti-i-Jehangir, a huge slab of black rock with an inscription around the edge. The throne that stood here was made for Jehangir when he was Prince Salim.

Following the north side of the courtyard a side door leads to the tiny but exquisite white-marbled Nagina Masjid (Gem Mosque), built in 1635 by Shah Jahan for the ladies of the court. Down below was the Ladies’ Bazaar, where the court ladies bought their goods.

A hidden doorway near the mosque exit leads down to the scallop-shaped arches of the large, open Diwan-i-Am, which was used by Shah Jahan for domestic government business, and features a beautifully decorated throne room where the emperor listened to petitioners. In front of it is the small and rather incongruous grave of John Colvin, a lieutenant-governor of the northwest provinces who died of an illness while sheltering in the fort during the 1857 First War of Independence. To the north is the Moti Masjid, currently off-limits to visitors. From here head back to the Amar Singh gate.

You can walk to the fort from Taj Ganj via the leafy Shah Jahan Park, or take an autorickshaw for ₹80. Food is not allowed into the fort. The fort opens 30 minutes before sunset; the ticket office opens 15 minutes before that. Last entry is 30 minutes before sunset.

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/india/agra/attractions/a/poi-sig/356509

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

The Taj Mahal invariably steals the spotlight in Agra but the city also has one of India's most significant Mughal forts. Four generations of influential Mughal emperors ruled from Agra Fort, while Agra was the capital of the flourishing Mughal Empire. The fort was among the first monuments in India to be declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. It reflects both the strength and splendor of the Mughal dynasty, which dominated India over three centuries.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/agra-fort-india-guide-4162022

One of the highlights of the trip that I was looking forward to was to see and capture through my lens the “cleaned up” Taj Mahal (Taj) just finished last year peeping through Agra’s famous morning winter fog and then see it reveal itself in the rising sun - with and without PEOPLE! I wasn’t disappointed.

With the alarm set for 6am / 06:00 it was a really early morning rise and a short 15 minute walk back to the Taj. To me the only advantage with the Amar Hotel was its location and closeness to the West Gate of the Taj.

In the darkness the newspaper sellers were sorting their papers before delivery.

Sure, there was no queue at the left hand foreigner’s ticket window and paid my 1,100 rupees / NZ$22.90 / US$15.50 as I did not want to go back into the mausoleum or up to that level for the extra 200 rupees / NZ$4.20 / US$2.80.

The male foreigner’s queue already at 6.30am / 06:30 had about 100 people. Much worst still in the male Indian queue. I should have followed my instinct and got up a bit earlier as opposed told to leave the hotel at 6.30pm / 06:30.

At security, knowing from yesterday afternoon visit what I was allowed to bring in ... literally nothing so it was a breeze after a full pat down. The person in the next line had a flashlight inside his go pro stick and this was taken away. Yes, he had the option of going back out and putting it inside a locker. So pay heed as to what you cannot take in! The list is quite long including crayons that I read somewhere.

Here are the “Do’s and Don’ts” from the https://www.tajmahal.gov.in/do%26nots.html

Do's

• Tourists must co-operate in keeping the monument neat & clean by using dustbins.
• Tourists are advised to hire approved guides & photographers who exhibit their identity cards.
• Taj Museum inside Taj Mahal Complex opens from 10.00 AM to 5.00 PM, entry free.
• No Polluting vehicles are allowed within 500 mts. radius of Taj Mahal.

Don'ts

• Drone camera is strictly prohibited inside the Taj Mahal.
• Eating and smoking is strictly prohibited inside Taj Mahal. Arms, ammunitions, fire, smoking items, tobacco products, liquor, eatables (Toffees), head phones, knives, wire, mobile charger, electric goods (except camera), Tripods are also prohibited.
• Mobile phones are to be kept switched off or on silent mode.
• Please avoid carrying big bags and books inside the monument, this may increase your security check time.
• Photography is prohibited inside the main mausoleum.
• No Polluting vehicles are allowed within 500 mts. Radius of Taj Mahal.
• Avoid touching & scratching the walls & surfaces of the monument as these are heritage sites and need special care.
• Visitors are requested not to make noise inside the mausoleum.
• Above mentioned list of prohibited items along with mobile phones are banned for night viewing of the Taj Mahal. Video camera, extra batteries are prohibited though still camera is permitted after the security check.

With the moon high above, entered and in the distance the Taj was shrouded in fog.

One of the locals came up and said “I am not a guide but the caretaker. I can show you different angles of the Taj for you to take pictures”. So off I went with him. Yes, I knew what was happening so I let him point out to me where to stand using the trees to better frame the Taj. After a while I simply said that I have no money which was true as I only took with me the entrance fee … so off he went. We saw each other several times afterwards and he was doing the same “sales pitch” with other tourists.

Tried to get as many of the Taj and it’s 4 minarets framed by the arches and trees. Plus the angles that you don’t see in the brochures.

With the winter’s misty fog slowly moving in and out at different levels, it gradually got brighter and was a surreal experience.

Come 7.30am / 07:30 the golden ball of sun finally rose behind the Jawab.

Yes, I walked around the Taj many times trying to capture it from different angles but also took time to just sit, people watch of the ever-changing scene and take in the majesty of the place as the sun reflected off the newly cleaned building.

A photo shoot was in progress in the mosque entrance.

Spent 2.5 hours here till 9.30am / 09:30 seeing the sun rise and the light changed ever so slowly on the main gate, reflecting pools from various angles, guest house, Mosque and of course the Taj Mahal itself in its various moods as the sun rose.

Gary Arndt of “Everything Everywhere” wrote …

https://www.facebook.com/EverythingEverywhere/

Everything is familiar with the Taj Mahal. Many of you may have even visited it.
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Almost every photo you see of the Taj Mahal is the same. It is a symmetrical image of the structure taken directly in front of it, most probably from the exact same spot where I took this photo.
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I’ve seen many people try to take this same photo, and the results aren’t the same, even though they stood in the exact same spot that I did. Here is what you need to do to take the perfect shot of the Taj Mahal:

1. Make sure everything is symmetrical. This is where most people screw up. They align everything, so it is almost symmetrical, but not quite. The way to ensure that it is perfect is to make the the reflection of the spire in the central dome is aligned with the fountains in the center of the reflecting pool.
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2. Get there early. The doors opened at 7am the day I was there. Depending on the time of year, they might open earlier. Officially, they claim to open 30 minutes after sunrise. I showed up at 5:30am to make sure I was first in line, which I was.
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3. Run or walk briskly to the first gate where you will see the Taj for the first time. You have about 100m to cover and there will be other people behind you in line. You don’t have to run, but you do need to be quick. Everyone else with you will want the same shot.
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4. Be prepared. When you get to the railing past the gate, that is where you will get this shot. If you are one of the first ones there, you will have a few minutes where you can photograph the building without any people in the image. Have all your settings set beforehand. You probably won’t have time to mess with a tripod. This photo was not shot with a tripod.
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5. Once you get this shot, then you can relax a bit. People will be streaming around you and the grounds will start to fill up. I’d head to the building to the right of the Taj where you will be able to get images of the Taj through an archway. Walk around the exterior of the building and get your shots in the early morning light before you decide to enter.
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6. If you have the time, consider going across the river to photograph the Taj in the morning the day after. If you are lucky.

Had to leave around 9.30am / 09:30 as breakfast service back at the hotel finished at 10am / 10:00. So, after a quick breakfast was ready to leave before 10.30am / 10:30 for the next sight.

Now 2.30pm / 14:30 and continued the short 35 km / 22 miles distance through to Agra.

With the traffic it was 3.30pm / 15:30 when I checked in at the 3-star Hotel Amar, my only 3-star hotel on this trip. I forgot that in India to be a 4-star hotel it has to have a pool. Yes, the 4-star hotels that I stayed at with pools were nice, but it was winter and I didn’t want a swim so perhaps 3-star hotels would have been enough. Never mind.

Sanjay was the local guide for Agra and he was waiting at the hotel. Sun was about to set in a couple of hours so no time to waste at the hotel.

Little needs to be said about this architectural wonder which is always the soul raison-de-etre for every tourist’s visit to Agra. Built by Shahjehan, the Taj Mahal (Taj) is a white marble memorial to his beautiful wife Mumtaz Mahal.

This is what Lonely Planet has to say …

Poet Rabindranath Tagore described it as 'a teardrop on the cheek of eternity'; Rudyard Kipling as 'the embodiment of all things pure'; while its creator, Emperor Shah Jahan, said it made 'the sun and the moon shed tears from their eyes'. Every year, tourists numbering more than twice the population of Agra pass through its gates to catch a once-in-a-lifetime glimpse of what is widely considered the most beautiful building in the world. Few leave disappointed.

The Taj Mahal was built by Shah Jahan as a memorial for his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died giving birth to their 14th child in 1631. The death of Mumtaz left the emperor so heartbroken that his hair is said to have turned grey virtually overnight. Construction of the Taj began the following year; although the main building is thought to have been built in eight years, the whole complex was not completed until 1653. Not long after it was finished, Shah Jahan was overthrown by his son Aurangzeb and imprisoned in Agra Fort, where for the rest of his days he could only gaze out at his creation through a window. Following his death in 1666, Shah Jahan was buried here alongside his beloved Mumtaz.

In total, some 20,000 people from India and Central Asia worked on the building. Specialists were brought in from as far away as Europe to produce the exquisite marble screens and pietra dura (marble inlay work) made with thousands of semiprecious stones.

The Taj was designated a World Heritage Site in 1983 and looks nearly as immaculate today as when it was first constructed – though it underwent a huge restoration project in the early 20th century.

Entry & Information

Note: the Taj is closed every Friday to anyone not attending prayers at the mosque.

The Taj can be accessed through the west and east gates. The south gate was closed to visitors in 2018 for security concerns but can be used to exit the Taj. The east gate generally has shorter queues. There are separate queues for men and women at both gates. Once you get your ticket, you can skip ahead of the lines of Indians waiting to get in – one perk of your pricey entry fee. It's possible to buy your tickets online in advance at https://asi.payumoney.com (you'll get a ₹50 discount for your troubles), but you won't save much time as you still have to join the main security queue. A ticket that includes entrance to the mausoleum itself cost ₹200 extra.

Cameras and videos are permitted, but you can't take photographs inside the mausoleum itself. Tripods are banned.

Remember to retrieve your free 500ml bottle of water and shoe covers (included in Taj ticket price). If you keep your ticket, you get small entry-fee discounts when visiting Agra Fort, Fatehpur Sikri, Akbar's Tomb or the Itimad-ud-Daulah on the same day. Bags much bigger than a money pouch are not allowed inside; free bag storage is available. Any food or tobacco will be confiscated when you go through security, as will pens.

Inside the Grounds

From both the east and west gates you first enter a monumental inner courtyard with an impressive 30m red-sandstone gateway on the south side.

The ornamental gardens are set out along classical Mughal Charbagh (formal Persian garden) lines – a square quartered by watercourses, with an ornamental marble plinth at its centre. When the fountains are not flowing, the Taj is beautifully reflected in the water.

The Taj Mahal itself stands on a raised marble platform at the northern end of the ornamental gardens, with its back to the Yamuna River. Its raised position means that the backdrop is only sky – a masterstroke of design.

Purely decorative 40m-high white minarets grace each corner of the platform. After more than three centuries they are not quite perpendicular, but they may have been designed to lean slightly outwards so that in the event of an earthquake they would fall away from the precious Taj. The red-sandstone mosque to the west is an important gathering place for Agra's Muslims. The identical building to the east, the jawab, was built for symmetry.

The central Taj structure is made of semi-translucent white marble, carved with flowers and inlaid with thousands of semiprecious stones in beautiful patterns. A perfect exercise in symmetry, the four identical faces of the Taj feature impressive vaulted arches embellished with pietra dura scrollwork and quotations from the Quran in a style of calligraphy using inlaid jasper. The whole structure is topped off by four small domes surrounding the famous bulbous central dome.

Directly below the main dome is the Cenotaph of Mumtaz Mahal, an elaborate false tomb surrounded by an exquisite perforated marble screen inlaid with dozens of different types of semiprecious stones. Beside it, offsetting the symmetry of the Taj, is the Cenotaph of Shah Jahan, who was interred here with little ceremony by his usurping son Aurangzeb in 1666. Light is admitted into the central chamber by finely cut marble screens.

The real tombs of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan are in a basement room below the main chamber.

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/india/agra/attractions/a/poi-sig/356509

With the foreigners window only having a person in front of me, tickets were quickly brought, picked up the complementary shoe cover to protect the marble floors and bottle of water.

For once, I did not mind segregation. You will have a totally different experience at the Taj depending on whether you purchase a “High Value Ticket” (as all foreign visitors seem to), or a “General Ticket.” This begins from the very moment you walk in the door to the main courtyard: High Value Ticket-holders slide into the yard in minutes, while the General Ticket line stretches for blocks.

The same applied with the queue entering the Taj Mahal mausoleum itself.

Sanjay had already told me earlier what I was allowed to take in so was prepared for a quick entry through security.

It was far too busy with too many people in front of me at the main gate to fully enjoy that magnificent first view of the Taj itself.

After its year long clean up completed last year, it was wonderful to see it in the distance.

So, after the briefing from Sanjay and taking the usual photos of pinching the top or lifting the Taj, I was again let loose.

Thereafter, visit the Taj Mahal mausoleum and on with the disposable overshoes to protect the marble floor. As for people not allowed to take photos and no noise inside ... you guessed it … they were!

Two red buildings flanked the Taj. The mosque and Jawab. Definition of a Jawab is a building (as the false mosque of the Taj Mahal) erected to correspond to or balance another. Read that it was the guest house.

Lotus Pool – named after its lotus shaped fountain spouts, the pool reflects the tomb.

It was the refection in the blue pools in front of the Taj and the main gate that really captivated me, hence so many images. How to take it? From up High or down Low? Centre down the middle or from the left or from the right?

Then there was that iconic 1992 Princess Di seat photo, but I had my legs going the wrong way. Plus, there were two marble seats and Princess Di was sitting on the lower one, not the one that I was on.

Just look at the changing light and eventually see the people leave. It was busy when I got there. Again mainly local Indian tourists.

There wasn’t much of a sunset to speak of today which was a shame. Originally Sanjay said the place closed at sunset. Then he wanted me to meet and leave at 5.10pm / 17:10 but no … I had come all this way and decided to stay to the bitter end when the gates really closed at 6pm / 18:00. Really glad that I did.

On the way back to the hotel, off to see a marble inlay workshop and you got it ... it was so that I could buy some souvenirs which was not going to happen.

Being New Year’s Eve, it was a compulsory dinner at this hotel. Let’s just say the menu was not to my liking. Plus, I was placed by an open drafty door that I asked to be closed many times, which it was then re-opened … Plus I pad 1,800 rupees as part of the hotel package yet the brochure I saw had just 900 rupees. So, what’s up? Who’s making 100% mark up? Or is the 900 rupee coupon part of the 1,800 rupee package?

Last full day and the trip was nearing its end with the major attraction of the Taj Mahal still to come.

After breakfast was the drive to Agra enroute visiting Fatehpur Sikri first.

On route passed a cattle market or actually selling mainly goats. I had just 5 minutes and honestly wish I had more time here. Again literally as soon as I walked in was asked by the locals for me to take their photo so absolutely no issues here.

Not much further along was Ashok’s meal break and I finally got a stamp to post Eve her post card. Something I started to do on my 2011 Galapagos trip from Post Office Bay, Floreana where we could deliver post cards to people in cities we are to visit as well as place post cards or letters for future delivery by anyone. No postage stamps were required. How did it all start? A barrel was placed here in the late 18th century by English whaling vessels to be used as a post office. Passing ships would stop to leave mail for loved ones, collecting at the same time any mail destined for ports on their itineraries. Today the box is used mainly by us tourists who drop off and pick up unstamped letters to be carried to far away destinations. …

http://v2.travelark.org/travel-blog-entry/bruceontour/7/1325766339

More fields of yellow mustard and brick kilns dotted the countryside.

Finally at 1pm / 13:00 arrived at Fatehpur Sikri.

An impressive sandstone fortress was built in the 16th century and only occupied for a few years before being abandoned, leaving the buildings in virtually perfect condition.

Aimit was the local guide here.

Had to catch the CNG powered bus (10 rupees each way) the short distance to Fatehpur Sikri from the car park. This was one way that authorities could try and cut back the effect of pollution on the buildings. Not only here but also at the Taj. I can see this practice happening throughout India.

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

A city that was once the proud capital of the Mughal Empire in the 16th century, Fatehpur Sikri now stands deserted as a well-preserved ghost town. It was abandoned by its occupants after only 15 years due to an insufficient water supply.

Fatehpur Sikri was established by Emperor Akbar from the twin villages of Fatehpur and Sikri as a tribute to the famous Sufi saint, Sheikh Salim Chishti. The saint accurately predicted the birth of Emperor Akbar's much longed for son.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/fatehpur-sikri-essential-travel-guide-1539341

This is what Lonely Planet has to say …

This magnificent fortified ancient city, 40km west of Agra, was the short-lived capital of the Mughal empire between 1572 and 1585, during the reign of Emperor Akbar. Earlier, Akbar had visited the village of Sikri to consult the Sufi saint Shaikh Salim Chishti, who predicted the birth of an heir to the Mughal throne. When the prophecy came true, Akbar built his new capital here, including a stunning mosque, still in use today, and three palaces, one for each of his favourite wives – one a Hindu, one a Muslim and one a Christian (though Hindu villagers in Sikri dispute these claims).

The city was an Indo-Islamic masterpiece but was erected in an area that supposedly suffered from water shortages and so was abandoned shortly after Akbar’s death. The red-sandstone palace walls are at their most atmospheric and photogenic near sunset.

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/india/uttar-pradesh/fatehpur-sikri

I am not too sure but looks like Kandil (lamp) or it just could be an art piece for decoration only.

Back into car at 1.25pm / 13:25 and into Jaipur for a late lunch at Green Pigeon.

Green Pigeon is popular with foreigners probably due to the local guides taking them there. It was almost exclusively full of tourists.

Live cultural music. (Yes, you are expected to tip the dancers).

The first instrument that the man is playing is called Ravanhatha, similar to an instrument called ektara, meaning one string instrument.

The boy is holding an instrument called Khartal. Very widely used over Rajasthan, probably in every nook and children's learn this from very young age, though requires a lot of stamina and strength.

Ravanahatha is a primitive string instrument, made up of locally available materials like bamboo, metal pipes and strings, coconut shell, leather, and horse’s hair. It is largely believed fact that Ravanahatha is the precursor for the modern day string instruments like violin. Evidently, the method of playing a Ravanahatha is quite identical to that of playing a violin. It too includes a bow that is drawn across the strings to create musical vibrations. Furthermore, just alike violin, Ravanahatha has a fingerboard which is used to play the octaves.

The Khartal is another form of percussion commonly used for devotional/spiritual purposes. A bit like clappers, the Khartal has two pieces; one held in each hand. The “male” piece is thicker and held with the thumb, while the “female” piece is thinner, and balanced by the ring finger. “It has derived its name from [the] Hindi words ‘kara’ mean[ing] hand, and ‘tala’ mean[ing] clapping” (Wikipedia). This wooden clapper has metallic discs or plates that produce a clinking sound when clapped together. Therefore, it would be considered an Idiophone due to the combined properties of the vibrator and resonator. Rapid and complex rhythms are encouraged, as this instrument represents assertiveness, strength, and stamina.

https://www.ohmyrajasthan.com/ravanahatha

Flies were an issue.

Not good Trip Advisor reviews though!

Anyway, for me it was a Kingfisher lager 300 rupees / NZ$6.10 / US$4.20.
Chicken shami kebab 420 rupees / NZ$8.60 / US$5.90.
Garlic naan 100 rupees / NZ$2 / US$1.40.
Plus GST and a tip came to 1,000 rupees / NZ$20.20 / US$14.

I read several times afterwards comments like this … Our driver recommended this place, so got suckered into it, we noticed lots of guides and drivers waiting outside so I assume they get commission for taking you.

https://www.facebook.com/GreenPigeonJaipur/?ref=py_c

Two more brief stops ….

Jal Mahal ~ Water Palace

Got to the Jal Mahal or Water Palace at 3.50pm / 15:50.

The Jal Mahal is the beautiful palace that appears to be floating on the still waters of lake Sagar. This iconic palace was constructed by the Muhjah during the 18th century as an overnight lodge, for use during his duck hunting trips. The Jal Mahal is one of the most charismatic buildings of Jaipur but can only be viewed from the banks of the lake, so a visit is usually less than 15 minutes.

Possibly the most serene sight amidst the chaos of Jaipur is the beautiful Jal Mahal Jaipur, the Water Palace. This low-rise symmetrical palace, that once was a shooting lodge for the Maharajah, appears to float in the centre of Sagar Lake. The light sand coloured stone walls of the Jal Mahal Jaipur are at a stark contrast to the deep blue of the waters of the lake, while from the innards of the palace lush foliage sprouts.

Tourists who view the Water Palace from the banks of Lake Sagar are often unaware of the technological and design achievements of the ancient palace. Though the palace only appears to be a single story there are actual a further four submerged levels. The solid stone walls hold back millions of litres of water and the special designed lime mortar has prevented water seepage for over 250 years.

The Jal Mahal was constructed from pink sandstone and follows the classical Rajput symmetrical style which is found throughout of Rajasthan. Jaipur’s government has made a tremendous effort to improve both the palace and the surrounding lake. Less than 10 years ago the palace was an abandoned ruin with water leaking in while the lake was a foul smelling sewage outlet but today wildlife teems within the lake’s waters a the place is back to its former glory.

The Jal Mahal when translated into English means the Water Palace but the complex was never intended to be used as a palace by Maharaja Madho Singh I. Madho Singh, who constructed the Jal Mahal in 1750, simply wished it to be a lodge for himself and his entourage during his duck hunting parties. Madho’s son Madho Singh II greatly enhanced the Jal Palace during the 18th century interior of the palace adding the courtyard grounds and much of the exterior as seen today.

http://www.jaipur-travel-guide.com/Jaipur-attractions/Jal-Mahal-Jaipur-Water-Palace.html

Anyway, it was as usual the scenes on the footpath with the locals that really interested me.

Albert Hall Museum

Finally, at 4.30pm / 16:30 got to the outside of the Albert Hall Museum.

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

This old and famous museum was modeled on the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, with a fusion of Islamic and Neo-Gothic architecture. It was established as a public museum in 1887. The collection includes portraits of local kings, costumes, woodcarvings, paintings, and arts and crafts. The museum is particularly notable for its Egyptian mummy, belonging to the Ptolemaic dynasty. Unfortunately photography isn't allowed. The museum is beautifully illuminated after dark and it opened for night viewing in 2015.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/top-jaipur-attractions-1539207

http://alberthalljaipur.gov.in/

Back to the hotel 4.40pm / 16:40 at the end of a rather full on day.

Was supposed to meet JD, my G Adventure’s CEO from one of my last India trips but he had to pull out at the last minute.

Dinner was next door in the food court at Vijs Bar-Be-Q = Tandoori chicken - Boneless tender dinner marinated skewered in a clay oven served with mint sauce 329 rupees / NZ$6.70 / US$4.60.
Garlic naan 60 rupees NZ$1.20 / US$0.80.
Plus GST came to 408 rupees / NZ$8.30 / US$5.70.

"If you got to go, then you just got to go"

Seen around Jaipur.

It took little time to drive out to Amber Fort.

Perched on a hill 11km from Jaipur and nestling among the Aravali Hills is the historic fort-palace of Amber.

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

Amber Fort is perhaps the most well-known fort in India. It gets its name from the small heritage town of Amber (also known as Amer) where it's situated, about 20 minutes northeast Jaipur. Rajput ruler Maharaja Man Singh I began constructing the fort in 1592. Successive rulers added to it and occupied it until Jaipur was built and the capital relocated there in 1727. Now, it's one of Jaipur's top tourist attractions.

The fort is part of a group of six hill forts in Rajasthan that were declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2013 (the others are Jaisalmer Fort, Kumbhalgarh, Chittorgarh, Ranthambore Fort, Gagron Fort and Amber Fort). Its architecture is a magnificent blend of Hindu and Mughal influences. Made out of sandstone and white marble, the fort complex consists of a series of courtyards, palaces, halls and gardens. The Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace) is widely regarded as the most beautiful part of it, with intricately carved, glittering walls and ceilings.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/top-palaces-and-forts-in-india-1539345

He is like the vendor in Udaipur selling chana jor garam. Made of flattened chick peas which is smashed into a disc when wet, sundried or roasted (ideally) and spiced with masalas, sold as a very popular street food.

It is the onion which he is peeling and going to chop. This is how most of the vendors chop or peel their veges when they have no space.

Ask Indian housewives, you would hardly see any chopping boards in kitchen as paring knife is used to chop all sort of veggies with both hands.

Chana jor garam is normally roasted with charcoal pot which just sits on the pile of chanas. As per your order, he will mix and toss it in a paper for you with onion, green chillies, lemon juice, chat masala, black salt and coriander leaves.

Pagdi (Turban) is a Rajasthani headwear worn by men and made up of cotton (printed).

Being so late now, the elephants who took the tourists up to the fort in the morning were returning plus we had to endure the lengthy traffic jam. It was because of all the domestic Indian tourists visiting what was certainly the number 1 site on this part of the trip.

It took an hour from when I first saw the fort till the car reached the car park at the top of the fort itself. Quicker if we had walked!

With the traffic on the one way in stopping for such long periods of time, Push suggested we get out and first up was to see the Panna Meena Ka Kund stepwell near Kheri Gate. Not allowed to climb down the stairs.

I wish I had more time as I was told no photos, but I took some then later read this ….

Entry to the step well is officially free but be warned, the patrolling policeman will probably try to charge you 150 rupees to go inside. I found that the best way to avoid paying was to ask him lots of questions about the entry fee such as “Where is the price list?”, “Do you provide actual tickets?”, or “Can I have a receipt?” and he will soon be so frustrated that he will stop hassling you, leaving you to wander down the steps and take as many photographs as your heart desires.

http://www.manvsglobe.com/panna-meena-ka-kund-visit-jaipur-stepwell-baori/

While Push waited to see the car catching up, I quickly saw this one which was bigger and square compared to the rectangular shaped stepwell that I had seen in Delhi.

Then back into the car and not much further along it was out again so I could see the Jagat Shiromani Temple.

Jagat Shiromani is a Hindu temple situated in Amer, India. This temple is dedicated to the Hindu gods Meera bai, Krishna and Vishnu. It was constructed between 1599-1608 AD by Queen Kanakwati, who was the wife of King Man Singh 1st. The temple was built in the memory of their son Jagat Singh.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jagat_Shiromani_Temple,_Amer

A yell from Push saying that the car was approaching so that was it.

Two unexpected bonuses.

Finally got to the top car park at 12.45pm / 12:45.

Push was well known by the Amber Fort staff, so it was using this personal knowledge and relationship plus using the “short cuts” he took me to just the highlights. He quickly picked up that I was a photographer and didn’t want to know the history so many thanks for this.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/jaipur-amber-fort-guide-4123752

If you arrive by car you will enter through the Chand Pol (Moon Gate) on the opposite side of Jaleb Chowk.

From Jaleb Chowk, an imposing stairway leads up to the main palace, but first it’s worth taking the steps just to the right, which lead to the small Siladevi Temple, with its gorgeous silver doors featuring repoussé (raised relief) work.

Heading back to the main stairway will take you up to the second courtyard and the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience), which has a double row of columns, each topped by a capital in the shape of an elephant, and latticed galleries above.

The maharaja’s apartments are located around the third courtyard – you enter through the fabulous Ganesh Pol, decorated with beautiful frescoed arches. The Jai Mandir (Hall of Victory) is noted for its inlaid panels and multimirrored ceiling. Carved marble relief panels around the hall are fascinatingly delicate and quirky, depicting cartoon-like insects and sinuous flowers. Opposite the Jai Mandir is the Sukh Niwas(Hall of Pleasure), with an ivory-inlaid sandalwood door and a channel that once carried cooling water right through the room. From the Jai Mandir you can enjoy fine views from the palace ramparts over picturesque Maota Lake below.

The zenana (secluded women’s quarters) surrounds the fourth courtyard. The rooms were designed so that the maharaja could embark on his nocturnal visits to his wives’ and concubines’ respective chambers without the others knowing, as the chambers are independent but open onto a common corridor.

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/india/attractions/amber-fort/a/poi-sig/1286368/1329231

Push had done much of the restoration of the glass work here and showed me what he had done. Such craftsmanship.

With the balloon ride taking so long plus the really heavy traffic, my time here was limited so a return visit in the future would certainly not go astray.

Back at 10am / 10:00 and after a hasty change out of my layers of merino, a quick breakfast left at 10.30am / 10:30 for Hawa Mahal also known as the Palace of the Winds.

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

The intricate and fascinating facade of the Palace of the Winds is probably Jaipur's most recognized building. Constructed in 1799, it has five floors that contain rows of small windows and screens. Wind used to flow through the openings, giving the palace its name. However, the wind has now gone from the Wind Palace as most of the windows have been sealed shut. Legend has it that the palace, which overlooks the main street of Jaipur's lively Old City, was built so that the women of the royal household could watch the streets below without being observed. A panoramic view can be had from the top of the building.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/top-jaipur-attractions-1539207

http://www.hawa-mahal.com/

From behind it was a climb up the five stories to the top. Again, it was Push's personal relationship with the local staff on duty that we had an “express” path bypassing the many local tourists who were queuing to go up.

Then down and a walk along the front of Hawa Mahal as seen in the tourist brochures. The elaborate façade contains 953 small casements or to me windows with shutters in a huge curve. Each had its own balcony and crowning arch.

It was then off at 11.50am / 11:50 to see Amber Fort.

Both alarms were set for 4.45am / 04:45 with a 5.15am / 05:15 pick up. Another couple from the hotel had also booked this hot air balloon trip so the 3 of us were taken 60 minutes through Jaipur streets still fast asleep and out north towards town of Chandwaji.

"Up, Up and Away" is a 1967 song written by Jimmy Webb and recorded by the 5th Dimension was certainly in my mind as I waited for lift off.
“Would you like to ride in my beautiful balloon
Would you like to ride in my beautiful balloon
We could float among the stars together, you and I
For we can fly we can fly
Up, up and away”

This scheduled one hour balloon ride was not cheap but was to be my luxury treat for this trip. NZ$425 / US$290 / just over 20,000 rupees.

http://www.skywaltz.com/

It was my second hot air balloon experience having done a low level one in Cambodia back in 2012.

http://v2.travelark.org/travel-blog-entry/bruceontour/9/1356219664

Three balloons today and I was in the smallest one with just 8 passengers. The largest one took just over 20 people in its wicker basket. Having sent a few days earlier my weight for load distribution, it was liftoff in the Chomu Sub-District at 7.10am / 07:10.

Being out in the open I was prepared for the cold with beanie, silk scarf, 3 layers of short and long sleeve merino tops, sleeveless fleece vest and an outer wind shell jacket. Yes, it was 5C / 40 F but I certainly did not feel the cold at all.

Yes ... lots of photos / videos ...

Soon it was time to come down and our Spanish Captain Arturo spotted a field and at 8.17am / 08:17 touch down.

Unfortunately, it had no vehicle access so with the many children and adults surrounding the balloon it was lift off again. We had over 2 hours of gas so no problems here.

So, at 8.28am / 08:28 lift off and with the children madly running down the roads and across the fields trying to follow the balloon, it was a real unexpected bonus to spend more time above the countryside.

Second touchdown at 8.50am / 08:50 and landed in the Shahpura Sub-District.

No issues with access for the support vehicles who were closely following us.

Certificates handed out and a group photo before being taken back to Jaipur late!

Was initially told that we would be back at 9.30am / 09:30.

Twenty minutes later leaving at 9.09am / 09:09, thankfully the traffic wasn’t that bad as we headed back into Jaipur.

Back into the car and off to Bapu Bazar and the start of another crowded bustling walk in amongst the locals.

Walked along part of Chand Pole Bazar Rd. This market is famous for its artificial jewellery, bright bandhej / bandhani saree and suits, leather juttis, colourful Mojris (footwear), silver and artificial jewellery, gems, lac handmade bangles in vibrant shades, traditional hand block print fabrics, colourful bed sheets and rajais (quilts) etc.

Tiny shops half spilling out into the narrow footpath. Shops were on pavements, mobile carts, street vendors, mega buildings, small ones tucked in corners ... shops galore or shoppers’ paradise … shops, people, cars, buses, rickshaws, autos, cows, dogs and of course the shoppers were everywhere.

It was certainly colourful and cheerful mayhem! It was an experience like no other!

Is it a lamp standard?

This is a wedding lamp, normally used in the procession.

Then nearby Push showed me some of the glass work that he was currently restoring in a haveli that was also under restoration.

Lastly, it was the inevitable jewellery factory with the … you guess it, shop at the end. No thank you.

Back to the hotel at 5pm / 17:00.

From my room there was a view down into the neighbouring shopping centre.

Plus, what about the large window between the bedroom and bathroom?

Got a 360-degree view over the city from the hotel roof top swimming pool.

Then back down on my 4th floor and took the sunset pictures from behind the glass window.

Sun finally set in the distance at 5.40pm / 16:40.

Dinner in the hotel restaurant = Gosht biryani - Prime cuts of lamb cooked with basmati rice, finished in dum served with burrani raita 525 rupees / NZ$10.60 / US$7.30.
Plus GST and a tip came to 650 rupees / NZ$13.20 / US$9.10.
Won’t talk about the slack service when I asked for the bill.

Next door was City Palace.

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

Situated at the center of the Old City of Jaipur, the City Palace Complex was built mainly between 1729 and 1732 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II. He had been successfully ruling from nearby Amber Fort but increasing population and water shortage made him decide to relocate his capital to Jaipur in 1727.

The royal family still lives in the Chandra Mahal part of the palace (their family flag flies atop it when the Maharaja is in residence), while the remainder has been converted into the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II museum. For a hefty fee (2,500 rupees for foreigners and 2,000 rupees for Indians), you can take the Royal Grandeur tour through the inner quarters of the Chandra Mahal. Otherwise you'll have to be content with exploring the rest of the palace.

The most eye-catching part of it is Pitam Niwas Chowk, the interior courtyard that leads to the Chandra Mahal. It has four beautifully painted doors, or gates, representing the four seasons and dedicated to Hindu gods Vishnu, Shiva, Ganesh, and Goddess Devi (the mother goddess). The peacock motifs on the doorway of Peacock Gate are particularly stunning and widely photographed.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/top-palaces-and-forts-in-india-1539345

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

Upon visiting the magnificent City Palace, it's easy to see that the royal family of Jaipur was one of the richest in India. The palace's huge complex of courtyards, gardens, and buildings blends both Rajasthani and Mughal architecture. The royal family lives still lives there, in the graceful Chandra Mahal. It's possible to access the private rooms, with a personal guide, for an additional cost. Also inside the City Palace complex is a museum, art gallery, and interesting displays of royal costumes and old Indian weapons.

https://www.tripsavvy.com/top-jaipur-attractions-1539207

https://royaljaipur.in/

The most unique feature are the two huge silver water containers and are the world’s largest single silver items. These were used to transport Ganges water to unclean London!

Was 3pm / 15:00 when I was finished here.

Another 9am / 09:00 departure so there was after another double breakfast time for a walk around the resort taking the day time images in the previous entry.

Took just 2.5 hours to get to the Pink City of Jaipur.

Surrounded on three sides by the rugged Aravali hills, Jaipur is the picturesque capital of Rajasthan. It takes its name from the prince, soldier and astronomer Jai Singh II who moved his capital here in 1727. Jaipur is notable for its distinctive pink-orange colouring. The whole of the old city, including many fine palaces and buildings was constructed from solid blocks of sandstone or faced with the same stone. But it was only in 1853 that it gained its famous title, the ‘Pink City’ - it was painted pink for the first time in honour of a visit from Prince Albert.

Check into the Fortune Metropolitan, a 4 star hotel.

https://www.fortunehotels.in/jaipur-fortune-select-metropolitan.dh.41

A short break before the 1pm / 13:00 departure for the city tour. So, it was next door into the adjourning shopping centre to see what was there.

Pushpendra (Push) was my local guide for Jaipur. With his pink baseball cap and tall stature, he was really easy to spot.

Then off to Jantar Mantar Observatory.

The open air Jantar Mantar Observatory was a real surprise. As one brochure said it was more like a modern day sculpture park than an ancient Observatory.

Here is the link to Tripsavvy:

Jantar Mantar, built by King Jai Singh II between 1727 and 1734, literally means "calculation instrument". More than just a curious collection of sculptures, each structure at the intriguing Jantar Mantar observatory has a specialized astronomical function. There are 14 structures in total, which measure time, predict eclipses, and track stars. The most impressive one is the huge Samrat Yantra sundial. At a height of 90 feet (27 meters), it has a shadow that moves roughly the width of a person's hand every minute. It's a profound display of how quickly time does in fact go!

https://www.tripsavvy.com/top-jaipur-attractions-1539207

Push gave me the briefing, showed me the best places to take photos and then for the next 30 minutes let me loose to snap away.

Papadom is a term used mostly in South India where as in north they just call it as papad.

You see a lot of papad's being sold in Rajasthan because of the heat. Normally papad's are made at home and sundried on sarees or old bed sheets.

The papad variety starts from Dal (lentil), chawal (rice), chana (chick pea), sabu dana (tapioca), hari mirch (green chilli) ... and so on.